A DIY Arduino data logger for $10 from 3 components (2014)

Addendum 2019-01-15:

I posted the $10 DIY Arduino data logger in July 2014, and there have been many updates to the way I assemble the basic three component logger since the early version described in 2014. In 2019 we updated the design to reduce the total build time to about 1 hour: https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/21/easy-1-hour-pro-mini-classroom-datalogger-build-update-feb-2019/   We’ve also added support to the code for using the indicator LED as a light sensor, so you can start monitoring the environment right away :

In 2018 we published in Sensors: Cave Pearl Data Logger: A Flexible Arduino-Based Logging Platform for Long-Term Monitoring in Harsh Environments This paper describes how to optimize these loggers for long-term deployment and the PDF is free to download.


 Original Post from 2014-07-01:

To celebrate Arduino day this year, Sparkfun put their 3.3v Pro Minis on sale for $3. Well, how could I resist that?  I put in my order and, in due time, the little red boxes arrived with the morning mail. I was in the midst of assembling a small army of TinyDuino based logging platforms, so the Pro Minis just sat on the shelf for a while, as hacked into the tiny light sensor boards to drive my 3v sensors.  But then, a couple of weeks ago, I stumbled across a project where someone had soldered a micro SD card adapter directly to the pins of a Pro Mini…What? I had at least half a dozen of those things lying around! Within minutes I was in the basement, waiting for the soldering iron to heat up and realizing that an onboard regulator meant that the RTC could also be connected directly to the board.  Using 90° header pins to provide solder points at the base of the board (keeping the vertical pins free for sensors) I had the thing roughly connected   in less than 30 minutes.  A little scramble to re-jumper an old serial adapter I had in the drawer to run 3 volts (…because I forgot to order the 3v FTDI you need to use the Pro Minis), and the new unit worked like a charm right from the start.  I had cobbled together a working data logger from only three components. I did a little cost estimation:

 ProMiniDatalogger6 3.3v Pro Mini
Ds3232 RTC w At24c32 
256mb Sandisk micro SD (with adapter)
Wires, solder, ties, etc
Deans style connectors
indicator LED, Resistors etc
3v lithium Coin cell
$3.00
$2.00
$2.40
.
$1.00
$0.50
$1.00
$0.53
Total: $10.43
2x 10K ohm taps the vraw pin.

I used two 10Ks to divide the battery voltage in half & put it on A0.  But you could use up to 2 x 10MΩ and bring leakage down to 0.3 µA with a small cap to stabilize the reading.

The Grove hub adds another $3, but it’s not really needed unless you are doing sensor swaps like I am. Otherwise the I2C sensors can just be soldered directly on to the other end of that RTC module.  But I was still missing one piece of the puzzle:  How do I track the battery voltage when I can’t use the internal 1.1v reference trick like I did with the TinyDuino?  I googgled and found an excellent JeeLabs post about how to use a voltage divider to read supply voltages above Vcc on an analog pin. A little tweak to add the analog read to the Vcc read function in the codebase, and I had the cheapest “fully functional” data logger I have ever seen… sitting right in front of me.

It didn’t take long for that moment of “Wait…did that just happen?” to have my brain hoping around like a bullfrog on a hotplate.  You see, while this project originated with the challenge of determining water flow in cave systems, I hoped that there was at least the potential to do more than just keep my favorite hydro-geologist happy.  Over the years we have worked with so many great people at various NGO’s, Eco-Centers, etc. plugging away with boundless spirit & enthusiasm, but hobbled by shoestring budgets.  For these guys, something as expensive as a Hydrolab is just never going to be part of the game.  But if you combine something as cheap as this Pro Mini based logger platform,  with the super simple rubber bottom housings I came up with back in 2013:

IMGP0029this unit survived ~ 4 months
@ 5m depth, 50% salt water.
Fernco Qwik Cap
Nibco 3” pvc endcap
2x 3” knockout cap
4 x 2” 8-32 riser bolts
2x 3AA battery holders
3in of 3” dia pvc pipe
& ¾” pipe for sensor well
& pvc adhesive, etc.,
$3.50
$3.50
$0.60
$1.00
$1.00
.
.
$1.35
Total: $10.95

…then you have some real world environmental monitoring capability for about twenty five bucks.  If you use this with I2C, or one wire sensors, you can sidestep the Arduino’s limited 10bit ADC, and get better data, with more frequent sampling than most, if not all , of the other low priced loggers on the market. (you could also use the ADS1015 12bit OpAmp/ADC combo board…) And because you have the ability to edit the code yourself, it is easy to track the rate of change and increase the sampling frequency during  “events” of interest.  Features like that don’t usually appear in commercial data-loggers until you start spending some serious money.

The only unknown at this point is how long this thing will run on a fresh set of batteries. On the bench this Pro Mini logger (with three sensors & 2x 10k voltage divider attached) draws about 1.8 mA while sleeping.* I figure ~2mA is going to chew through a standard alkaline battery (~2000mAh) in about a month, so a build with 6x AAs should be good for at least 3-4 months depending on the sample frequency.  Most people are not working 30 minutes into a cave & 10 m under water, so that kind of retrieval schedule might be all right.  Or one can make the pvc pipe a bit longer on that housing and have room for another battery pack, which should easily get you past 6 months.  If you really want to splash out you could also go to lithium AA’s which provide an additional 1000 mAh per cell, and probably taking this thing up to a year on 9 cells…

As you might imagine, I have a couple of these loggers running on the bookshelf already, and I will post the burn test results here as soon as I have them. For now, I will simply post the wiring diagram, so anyone who wants to can build one.  Just don’t take too long soldering the contacts on the micro SD card adapter, as you can melt through the plastic around them very quickly.  I also suggest you test each stage of the wiring as you go along, before you finally attach everything to the platform…

Print

Note: that several sources recommend pullups on CS, MOSI, MISO and SCK, though I have been running my loggers without them, but I have found that some SD cards take a very long time to go to sleep unless CS, MOSI & MISO are pulled up.

Read the Addendums below!: The Rocket Scream Mini Ultra is the lowest current board I have found so far & good SD cards are crucial to the success of your data logger. My latest builds based on this design usually get down to ~0.35 mA while sleeping. Recent field tests have shown that 3 good quality AA batteries will power a logger that draws 0.33mA for 9 months.

You can download my latest code to drive these loggers from the Cave Pearl Project GitHub.  Just make sure you set the initial configuration defines properly before you compile (ie: uncomment ‘#define vRegulatedMCU 1’,  and comment out ‘#define unregulatedMCU’ if you use a resistor divider to read Vbat…which you really have to do if you want the unit to gracefully power down when the batteries expire) Also note that depending on which sensor you connect, other changes to the code will be necessary to co-ordinate buffering, and formatting the data that gets written to the SD card.

So how does this affect the project?

Power tests in progress

Pro Mini power tests are now under way….( Update: read the Addendums -> Sparkfun Pro Mini’s gave me a host of problems with the SD card communications, while many cheap clone boards worked fine? )

The currently deployed Pearls are set to be retrieved in about a month, and if they deliver the same (> 1 year) power performance that the Betas did, I suspect I will be staying with the TinyDuinos for a while, at least for long term in-cave deployments.  Just getting out to a remote cave site is often the most expensive part of field work, so if another fifty bucks worth of components means that I can safely wait a month or two (or six…) to find a flight deal, then I will ante up.  But we already have people interested in using the Pearls for monitoring flows at springs and other open water locations.  Most of them are on site, and they can service batteries by simply swimming out into the bay.  So I think I will get those folks rolling with Pro Mini based loggers right from the start.  It makes the build cheap enough that if some of these more exposed units “walk away on their own”, we wont be loosing our shirts. And it sends a tenner over to Sparkfun, without doubt one of the coolest nerd companies out there.  As the Pro Minis are licensed boards, Sparkfun also passes on a bit of each sale to Mr. Banzi et. al., and that’s pretty good too.

<— Click here to continue reading—>

Addendum 2014-07-02

I have discovered that it is possible to run the Pro Mini’s without the on-board voltage regulators…in fact, so many people have been manually cutting the trace to the voltage regulator to get low power operation out of the ProMinis, that Sparkfun has now put a power isolation jumper right into the design.  So if you get sensors that already have voltage regulators (as many IMUs do), or you use sensors that can handle large voltage swings (like the DS18B20)  you could turn this pro mini based logger into something like the unregulated TinyDuinos that will operate for a very long time on couple of AA’s. You would still need to regulate & level shift the SD card lines for data logger operation so another alternative is to bypass the on-board regulators by simply connecting an alternate supply directly to Vcc.  This is how the FTDI serial board powers your Arduino while you have it connected to the usb cable!  

fatlib16 posted a picture (near the bottom of the thread) of his ProMini powered by an MCP1700 :  you can bypass the on-board regulators by simply connecting the battery supply directly to Vcc  -> this is how the FTDI serial board powers your Arduino while you have it connected to the usb cable!

These guys are only $1.5 each, and are much easier to work with than the plastic micro SD adapters

I just discovered I should not be leaving those unused pins floating like I have in this photo – they should have pull-up resistors.

Addendum 2014-08-07

 There are some very inexpensive Raspberry pi micro SD card adapters on the market now that are much easier to work with than the thin plastic SD card adapters I used on the first build. I suspect that the spring connectors are more physically robust as well. Of course you could try Adafruit’s adapter for $2.50, and if you had money to burn, you could go to the Sparkfun SD board.

Addendum 2014-08-11

 Well serves me right for counting my chickens…After doing many different run tests on six different drip loggers built to this basic design I have some good news, and some bad news. The good news is that the cheap pro mini clone boards run well, logging data till they bring the power supply voltage low, at which point the voltage regulators go into a cycling reset loop, which so far has not hurt the data files on the SD cards. The bad news is that the units that have given me the most problems are…the ones that use the “real” Sparkfun Pro Mini. I still have not figured out why, but they have had no end of SD card problems.  I don’t think its because too much current being drawn, as they are only 128mb cards, and the units seem to be able to write SD data when they connected to the 3.3v FTDI board, which can only deliver about 50mA in total.  I will post an update when I get a handle on this problem…. (Note: later trials worked OK with other ProMini boards…these were just a bad batch. )

Addendum 2014-08-17

 I have about a weeks worth of burn test data in hand from six different loggers built with this basic design.  As I expected, the pro mini clone boards draw down a 3xAA power supply at almost the same rate no matter what the sample frequency is set to, indicating that the sleep current on the MC5205 voltage regulator they all use might the biggest load* on the system. (*This is an error – I found out later that the SD cards I was using were the real energy vampires. See below  From these rough tests it looks like I should get at least 3-4 months of operation out of them (on regular alkalines – 1/3 more with lithium) before the power supply gets down to the 3.35v minimum needed by the regulator. The best results so far have been from loggers built with the Rocket Scream Mini Ultra:

As I want to see how gracefully these voltage regulated systems behave when the batteries croak, I started the ultra based unit on a 3.4 volt power supply which already had a dead cell in it just to bring the voltage into the range of the voltage regulators minimum. More than 40000 SD card records later and the voltage is now at 3.3volts.  I did nothing special to the board myself, just loaded the same code running on the clone board tests above, which makes liberal use of generic sleep code (ie: not using Rocket screams special libraries!) This thing is performing like one of my unregulated tiny-duino based systems. I will leave this unit running until the voltage divider reading vRaw gets to 2800 mv,  (this might be a destructive test as this is way below the MCP1700T regulators minimum rating) because I still want to see how gracefully it handles a full brown out.   

Addendum 2014-09-23

Just a quick update on the three component loggers. At this point I have put together about 20 of them with many different boards and they all seem to work OK (including the Sparkfun ProMini’s – Although they still give me more grief initializing the SD than the clones, even with the pin13 led removed. I just don’t know if their regulator is up to the task?). However I have found that the sleeping SD cards themselves are by far the most important part of the system, and that most builds come close to 0.3mA sleep current if you have REAL Sandisk memory cards….  However if you get burned with counterfeit cards your sleep currents can go above 5mA!  Assuming your sensors don’t draw too much, with a 0.3 mA sleep current, a single AA battery could power one of these unit for a couple of months, and 3 AA’s should get you close to nine months. The big quid pro quo here is that nothing is protecting your SD card if you suffer a power failure. I’m working on that now. Making smaller individual data files is probably the first step.

Addendum 2014-09-27

 After more testing of the many 64, 128 & 256 mb cards I bought from eBay, and I have found that if you have the “good” Sandisk cards, the whole logger should gravitate towards about 0.33 mA,  even if you leave connections 8 & 9 unconnected as I did in my earlier builds. (& I have an ADXL345 on my drip counter test system so about 40 µA of that current is being drawn by the sensor) However lots of my microSD cards seem to need pullups (OR pulldown) resistors on the two card connections that are not used to keep them from floating, or the sleep currents will be much higher. In the forums (and in the datasheets) people seems to be recommending 50-100K pullups, and I have done a few experiments which I will write up as a longer post later.

But the general result is: If this logger system+Sd card sleeps around 0.3mA with the pins floating, you already have a good card, pullups won’t change much, and about 1/2 the time it actually increases sleep current if you use a pull down resistor, possibly as high as 0.9 mA (the other half of the time the pulldown does not increase the sleep current). If your system draws between 0.5 mA to 2mA with the card sleeping…”generally” I find a pull down resistor on 8 &9  (I used 20k ohm)  works better than a pullup, and should bring the whole system down to a stable 0.33 mA sleeping current.  This is very strange because no where in the data sheets does it specify to use a pulldown. I probably need to do more testing here so I put a pullup on the illustration above just to be safe.

If you don’t get to near 0.33 mA with either a pullup or a pulldown, then you have a bad microSD card, and you should go find another one. If your “sleeping system” current for this logger design is above 2 mA, then you have a REALLY bad counterfeit microSD card, and you should just throw it in the rubbish bin. And the worst cards of all bounce down to a reasonably low sleep current initially, and then slowly “creep” upwards over the course of 2-10 of minutes, as you are watching the meter.  Those cards often seem to be bad, whether you put a pullup, or a pulldown, on the unused lines so the card controller is probably NFG.

Generally, if you have a good card, it goes into sleep state almost instantly as soon as the MCU sleeps, and you can see that on the current meter because the numbers are completely stable at the lower reading right away. The crummy cards seem to wander around for a while, like they have to think about whether they actually want to go to sleep or not.

Addendum 2014-09-27

I have posted an updated version of this logger design. The new version adds a Pololu latching power switch, which allows the Arduino to cut its own power when the batteries fall low, protecting the data on the SD card. This is a real trade off because the switch itself draws as much current as the whole logger when sleeping, so you would have to go to six batteries to see 6-9 months of operation for that build. I have also provided links to sources of components have been using for my builds.

Addendum 2016-01-25

Reliable sources recommend pullups on the SPI lines, though I have been running my loggers for a long time without them.  I have noticed that some SD cards take a really long time to go to sleep unless CS, MOSI & MISO are pulled up, and some just refuse to sleep at all without the pullups. These weak pullup resistors are not described in this tutorial. If you already have loggers built without them, there is a workaround using the 328’s internal pull-up resistors that I current have in testing.  Despite the fact that only CS requires it, I found that all three lines had to be pulled up before misbehaving cards went to sleep properly. So add these lines to the beginning of your setup before you run sd.begin

// pulling up the SPI lines
pinMode(chipSelect, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(chipSelect, HIGH); //pullup the CS pin
pinMode(MOSIpin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(MOSIpin, HIGH);//pullup the MOSI pin
pinMode(MISOpin, INPUT); digitalWrite(MISOpin, HIGH); //pullup the MISO pin
delay(1);

  It’s worth noting that there is some debate about the utility of this approach. Because SPI is a complex protocol, adding internal or external pullups could actually prevent you from being able to use other SPI sensors with your data logger. That is one reason why I tend to stick to I2C & analog sensors on my builds, so the SPI lines are dedicated to the SD card only.

A substantial overhaul of the Cave Pearl codebase

Driving all the new sensors that have been added over the last few weeks produced a real “herd of cats” in the codebase.  So I spent some time doing a major update of the Cave Pearl software, which is now posted at the project github. There are too many changes to list here, but a few highlights are that I2C register functions have been extracted to common subroutines and I have wrapped large sections with #ifdef/#endif statements, to make the sketch to adapt automatically to whatever combination of different sensors is attached for a given deployment  (drawing on the techniques used for the multiwii project) . I also have an scheme to replace power wasting delays (while waiting for high bit depth sensor conversions) with variable watchdog timer sleeps.

And just as a teaser, there have also been some dramatic new developments on the hardware side of things. Some of you will see that telegraphed here, but I am not tipping my hat on that till the bench-top tests give me more preliminary numbers. It will be interesting to see if anyone can spot what my next post will be about from the code alone… 🙂

Project Update: June 19, 2014

NewCropofDataLoggers

All data logging functions are now localized to these interchangeable platforms. Sensors connect via I2C

As I ramp up production for the next round of deployments, I am happy to report that the new crop of logging platforms have all passed bench testing (set RTC, r/w EEprom, r/w SD card, I2C bus coms, etc).  As I have mentioned before, lifting the tiny light sensor board lines is a bit hairy, so I was expecting at least one of these to crap out due to bridging, etc on those tiny traces.

To give them a more realistic workout, I will rotate through these units as I integrate the new sensors into the main codebuild over the next week or so. Hopefully after that I will have enough time for some proper burn tests before we go into the field again.

The 171 holders have so much tension, it usually scratches the battery just putting them in!

The 171 holders have so much tension, it can be a little hard on the fingers putting the batteries in!

There have also been a few tweaks to the power supply modules: I am now using either brass, or nylon bolts wherever possible, and the plastic battery holders have been replaced with aluminum ones from Keystone Electronics.  These holders are easily the strongest ones I have ever seen, should be rugged enough to withstand some serious knocking about.  I still have not really tackled the hard & soft iron calibration issue yet, but hopefully the removal of the stainless parts used in the previous builds will assist compass calibration when I get there.  Still running everything through Shottky diodes, but I have switched over to “Deans” style power connectors after searching the quad-copter forums for something more robust.

<— Click here to continue reading—>

Using a TMP102 temp. sensor in one-shot mode with an Arduino

Note: SDA and SCL pullup resistors have been removed.

SDA & SCL pull-up resistors have been removed.

Despite the ease with which I got the DS18B20 one wire temperature sensor running, I would prefer to use all I2C sensors for a modular system that lets me swap the data logging platform and the sensor housings in the field.  The Texas Instruments TMP102 is very low power 12 bit sensor capable of reading temperatures to a resolution of 0.0625 °C and Sparkfun sells them on a breakout board for only six bucks.

There are plenty of basic starter scripts out there that just read the temperature register, and leave the units running at the default settings. However for my long term deployments I really wanted to make use of the “one-shot” mode that this sensor supports, where the unit auto-sleeps by default until you ask it to make another reading. While this doesn’t save that much power (it brings the sensors quiescent current from 10μA down to 1μA) I figured it could also reduce the noise on the I2C lines, and the BMA180 accelerometer that shares those lines is sensitive to absolutely everything.

For those who just want a library for this sensor, there is one here and here , but I wanted a more transparent approach, because sooner or later, I will need to integrate all my individual sensor scripts into the next Cave Pearl codebuild.  If I hide my functions in a library, it will be that much harder to see where duplication might be eliminated.

Because this sensor stores data in 16 bit registers (outlined here, but their code is somewhat confusing) , you have to do some juggling to reconstitute the data after reading out two register bytes.  This gets a little complicated if you reach temperatures below zero because the negative numbers are represented in binary twos complement format. Fortunately that is not an issue in caves, and the twos complement stuff does not need to be done on positive numbers. You also don’t need to get into the 13bit “extended” mode of this sensor unless you are measuring temperatures beyond the normal  –25°C to +85°C range.

You can download my TMP102 script HERE, This code produces the following output:

Initializing TMP102 Temperature sensor…
Integer data before conversion: 458
Temperature in deg C = 28.6250
Success:TMP102 has been initialized
Integer data before conversion: 457
Temperature in deg C = 28.5625
Integer data before conversion: 458
Temperature in deg C = 28.6250
Integer data before conversion: 480
Temperature in deg C = 30.0000
Integer data before conversion: 485
Temperature in deg C = 30.3125
Integer data before conversion: 489
Temperature in deg C = 30.5625
Integer data before conversion: 492
Temperature in deg C = 30.7500
….

(Note: I had my finger on the sensor here, to show the readings changing…)

The readings stabilize pretty quickly on the desktop, which is always good to see with a new sensor. Now that I have it running, I will build a special test unit with the TMP102, the DS18B20  (identical to TMP102 specs: 0.0625 °C/lsb & ± 0.5°C), and one of the MS5803 pressure sensors installed (16 bit resolution of 0.01°C but poor accuracy ± 2.5°C). That should let me assess issues like offsets, drift and noise as I select the best temperature sensor to adopt.  I will have the 102 potted in JB weld on the outside of the housings, so I suspect there will be some thermal lag to deal with as well. (I wonder if I could use some kind of heat pipe there?)

Addendum 2014-06-17:  

If I have issues with the TMP102, I may try to get a hold of a TMP112 which is code compatible, and has a slope specification that can be calibrated for better accuracy.

Addendum 2014-12-08:

I will post more detail on this later, but since I just ran across this problem, and I thought I should post to let other people know about it: For a long time I though my TMP102’s had a weird spiky noise problem which I tried to hammer out with sample averaging, but it was not the sensor, it was the floating point calculations on the Arduino. The two graphs on the right were derived from the raw sensor data with exactly the same equation:

Dont do float Calculations on ARDUINO

It’s possible that I caused this problem by forgetting to use proper casting in the calculations.

ie:  TEMP_degC =TEMP_Raw*0.0625   vs  TEMP_degC =(float)TEMP_Raw*0.0625 

but just in case, I am going to avoid float calculations on the Arduino.  You can always save your “raw” sensor data for processing later. 

 

Github launch for the Cave Pearl Project

A benchmark of sorts for the project today, as I finally got around to setting up a Github for the Cave Pearl Project. As I learn more about coding, and add more sensors to the platform, the scripts for each build have grown well beyond the size that I can squeeze into blog posts on this free WordPress account.  Now the code that I share will be somewhat more readable for other DIY’ers, as Github has a nice formatting scheme. I can also fork (and hopefully contribute back to) other code that is hosted there, as I am always on the lookout for more useful scripts.

Because site stats show me that people Googling individual sensors represent the largest volume of traffic to this blog, I have already posted all of the small “single” sensor scripts. I will work my way through the older datalogger code builds, transferring them to the Github folder in a more or less chronological order. It will take me some time to get that sorted as I will also try to cleanup the formatting a bit in the process.

 

Using a BMA180 with an Arduino as a tilt sensor

I know you are supposed to decouple Vcc and Vdd, but I have not figured out how to do that yet.

Plenty of these old geeetech breakouts selling on eBay. I know I am supposed to decouple VDD and VIO, but I have not figured out how to do that yet.

Up to this point I have been measuring displacement with the Bosch BMA250 on the Tiny-Circuits accelerometer board. But that sensor has a minimum range of 2g, using less than half of its 10 bit ADC in my tilt sensing application. Given that just about every electronic widget these days seems to rely on haptic feedback, I thought there would be a selection of other sensors out there to choose from in the 1 g range, so I was quite surprised to find out that there are only a couple of low g sensors on the market, and only the Bosch BMA180 uses an I2C interface.  I was already using the 250, and that was pretty easy to get rolling, so I thought that it was going to be a piece of cake to switch over….

But the BMA180 is the gnarliest sensor I have worked on to date, with a spaghetti monster of co-dependent register settings, and an obtuse snarbuckle of a data sheet.  But a 14bit ADC at 1g would almost triple the sensitivity of the Cave Pearls (In theory, registering a 0.25º tilt change), and for that I was willing to spend a week learning a bit about shift notation and masking to use this incredibly twitchy bit of kit.  And reading data out of the registers is not even the biggest challenge: trade-offs between sensitivity and spiky random noise rapidly gets you into a tangle of offsets, sampling frequencies and filtering modes that don’t get explained at all well in the documentation.

I started out with general accelerometer references by Texas Instruments, and Freescale, which tend to focus on the calculations required to turn generic accelerometer readings into roll, pitch and yaw. From there I found a few BMA180 link pages, but most of the sites were for dedicated quadcopter IMU’s like the multiwii, which generally combine data from an accelerometer with that from a gyroscope, using complementary filters or more complicated Kalaman filter calculations. Most of these approaches are aimed at real time smoothing of continuous data streams, while I am interested in infrequent, high accuracy readings.  There were a few seismometer projects, which showed me how to set the range, frequency & bandwidth filters, but they usually focus on getting interrupt alarm modes working, which is not useful for my application. Some mentioned calibration in passing, but there still was not much signal to noise optimization being done, and after several days I still could not find a single example of someone putting the sensor to sleep between readings to save power.

Once you start sending the readings to the serial monitor, you see how jumpy this sensor is just sitting on the desk, in low noise mode, with the lowest availiable bandwidth filter (10Hz).  I tried a moving average with the arduino library, and then using a basic smoothing routine, but the readings were still pretty unstable. I finally managed to tame the gremlins with the digital smoothing method from Paul Badger, which throws away the high and low values from a set of readings, before averaging the rest of the data. The trade off here is that while this sensor only draws 1025µA in low noise mode, I have the whole system running for 1 second to capture enough readings for this process.

Note: the sensor was not level here, just hanging on some wires.

Note: the sensor was not level here, just hanging on some wires, so the x & y axes are not zero.

Given how tough it was to get this far, and how few people are using this accelerometer as a stand alone device, I though I would post the rough BMA180 accelerometer script which now produces reasonably stable 14 bit readings. The code has a nice function for dealing with individual register bits with a mask, which I am sure will come in handy for other sensors. I still don’t grok hex numbers, so I have written the masks as long form binary so I can see exactly which bits are being modified.

As I am using the BMA180’s default low-noise mode, I am simply relying on the factory calibration in the sensors ADC. But occasionally one of the readings will spike over 16384, so I know I still need to implement further offset calibration. I have already tried a few simple “high/low” methods, but most of them have actually made the x & y offsets worse (perhaps I need to use a jig for calibration?) and it will be a while before I can tackle least squares or gauss newton . To be honest, I am not even sure if its worth trying to attempt the 3D ellipsoid corrections on the Arduino’s cpu. (and I don’t know if my “organic” processor is up to the task either 🙂 )

Addendum 2014-11-04

I finally figured out how to get the BMA180 sensor sleeping to save power between readings:

// first check if the sensor is in sleep mode by looking at the content of bit1 in CTRL_reg0
// if so wake up the sensor by setting the sleep bit (bit1 of reg0) to “0”
// you do not need to set the ee_w bit before doing this!
// but the dis_wake_up bit must be “1” to disable the auto-sleeping function first
// (I do this in the initialization)

bytebuffer1 = i2c_readRegByte(BMA180_ADDRESS, BMA180_CMD_CTRL_REG0);
bytebuffer2=bytebuffer1;
bytebuffer1 &= B00000010; //knock out the other bits
if(bytebuffer1){ // if “true” then the bit was “1”
bytebuffer2 &=~ (1<<1);     // forces 1st bit of bytebuffer2 to be 0. all other bits left alone
bytebuffer1 = i2c_writeRegByte(BMA180_ADDRESS, BMA180_CMD_CTRL_REG0, bytebuffer2);
delay(10);// now give the sensor some time to wake up
}

… now take your readings….

and then to put it to sleep again:

// put the BMA180 sensor to sleep again by setting the sleep = bit 1 of reg0, to “1”
bytebuffer1 = i2c_readRegByte(BMA180_ADDRESS, BMA180_CMD_CTRL_REG0);
bytebuffer1 |= (1<<1);      // forces first bit of bytebuffer1 to be 1. all other bits left alone.
bytebuffer2 = i2c_writeRegByte(BMA180_ADDRESS, BMA180_CMD_CTRL_REG0, bytebuffer1);

BMA180connections

Connecting to Vcc and GND further along the cable is easier than putting little jumpers on the surface of the board.

Because the sensor now sleeps below 1uA, I can let it run in its power hungry (~1mA) low noise mode when I need to take a reading, without having to worry about other power saving from things like the oddly named “wakeup” modes. The bitmath is from CosineKitty’s tutorial at the playground which showed me how to toggle just that one single bit in the register.

 

Bench-top Power Test Results : May – June 2014

The part swaps in March left me with a complete “spare” pendulum unit to bring back home. This has proved quite handy to explain the design to people, but I was keen to do a complete power test with the build, as I had set one of the pendulums in the cave to a short 5 minute sample interval, not knowing if it would go the distance.

Until I get my hands on an EEVblog uCurrent (or perhaps a Fried Circuits USB tester..?), there is only one way for me to determine power usage of the whole system, and that’s simply to plug one in and let it run. So on April 23rd,  I set the spare unit up on a bookshelf with 3 AA alkaline batteries, and a sample interval of 1 minute (to give the batteries a recovery period). Since then this test has been interrupted a few times due to random bumps during show and tell sessions. The gap around 20 000 samples was interesting in that the RTC alarm signal kept working, but the unit stopped recording the date/time data when an I2C wire was broken during handling. The Tinycircuits compass board level shifters kept the unit running, despite the loss of the other I2C lines, until I noticed the break and repaired it.

20140609_DryPowerConsumptionTest_graph

Vertical grey lines ~ 2000 records:  approximating one month of samples at 15 minute interval.

These results are as good as I could have hoped for: >61 000 records recorded on the SD card, with the power supply falling from 4380mV down to 3750mV (read with the internal Vcc reading trick, after the shottky diodes on the power module). That’s around 22 months of operation if we were capturing data every 15 minutes, and the units currently installed in the caves have twice as many batteries in them. Even better, this test is still comfortably on the alkaline battery power plateau –  nowhere near the 2800 mV cutoff I set in the code to protect against unsafe SD card writing. I intend to let this test run to completion to see how gracefully the unregulated unit handles the eventual loss of power.  Since I have a 3v button cell backing up the DS3231 RTC, my guess is that once the main power supply falls below that point, the RTC will sleep, and stop sending the wakeup alarm to the logging platform. This would be a fairly graceful fail if it happens that way, but the data could get choppy for a while as Vcc wobbles by 50-80 mV from one reading to the next in the current record. I will just have to see how it goes as I still have quite a few component changes to work through before I start counting chickens. My plan is for the next round of deployments to compare data from several different sensors measuring the same parameter in the same unit.  So there will be a one-of build with three temperature sensors, or three accelerometers, etc., making good use of the excess power available at this stage.

Addendum 2014-06-12

I just reviewed the DS3231 data sheet again, and the DS3231 is designed to keep running from Vcc well after the main supply falls below the voltage of the rtc backup battery.  The actual “Power-Fail” voltage”, where a low VCC stops the SQW alarm,  doesn’t kick in until somewhere between 2.45v min – 2.7v max. All below the 2.8 volts minimum for safe SD card writing. So it looks like the system clock wont give me a graceful power out behavior unless I somehow lower the RTC’s input voltage below the rest of the system ( by .2 to .3v …perhaps with a Shottky diode?). Interestingly, you can go the other way if you need to: Bit 6 (BBSQW) of the DS3231’s control register 0Eh, can be set to 1 to force the wakeup alarms to continue when running the RTC from the back up battery alone. Not useful here but perhaps on another project. 

Addendum 2014-06-12

 The power drain test with this unit was finally completed on Aug 06, 2014, recording 390000 records with 3 alkaline AA batteries.

Addendum 2014-09-21

The real world results were dramatically different from this bench testing, due to excessive sleep current being drawn by counterfeit SD cards in the deployed units.

Using a $1 DS3231 Real-time Clock Module with Arduino

A DS3231 for less than $1 ???

A ±2ppm DS3231N for less than $1? The industrial SN variant is rated for a wider -40°C to +85°C temp range than the N. The ±5ppm -M variant has dramatically different  noise/drift characteristics..

Since the Cave Pearl is a data logger, it spends most of the time sleeping to conserve power. So you could say that the most important sensor on the unit is the real-time clock (RTC), who’s alarm signal wakes the sleeping processor and begins the cascade of sensor readings. I built the first few beta units with the DS3231 Chronodot from Macetech (about $18 each), but I kept on stumbling across cheap RTC modules on eBay, Amazon, etc. and I eventually bought a couple to try them out. While I waited for them to ship on the proverbial slow boat, I did some digging, because these modules were (almost) selling for less than the chip itself if I bought them directly from trusted sources like Digikey, Mouser, etc.

So perhaps they are counterfeit chips, which are simply pin & code compatible? I also found rumors about “ghost” shifts, where legitimate manufacturer plants/equipment are used off the clock to produce extra parts. Or legitimate production runs which test out defective (if 10% of a run’s chips are bad, they often scrap the entire run) but someone intercepts the chips before they can be destroyed, and they resurface on the grey market. But even with all these possibilities in mind, I still have to make the Pearls as inexpensive as possible if they are going to be deployed in large numbers, and having an I2C eeprom on the board for the same money, made the temptation too great to resist.

When the RTC’s arrived they had an LIR2032 rechargeable battery underneath the board, and a LED power indicator above. I had a feeling that neither of these were going to be friendly to my power budget so I went hunting for the schematics to see what I could do to improve the situation.  I quickly found an Instructables post which described how to remove the battery charging circuit from a very similar DS1307 module, and then I found the datasheets and schematic for this DS3231 module over at at a site in Europe. Most of the parts were pretty straight forward:

RTC-goodparts

But thanks to the tutorial by msuzuki777, I immediately zeroed in on a few parts on that circuit diagram that could be removed:

Protel SchematicRTC mods

The power indicator (1) was pretty pointless, so that was the first thing to go.  I already had pullups on the I2C lines, so they were not needed here, but they were in a combined 4 resistor block, which meant that to get rid of the pullups on SCL and SDA, I also had to remove the pullup on the alarm line. This had me a little concerned, as that alarm line is vital to the whole design. Without that resistor on SQW, I am relying on the weak internal processor pullups keep the alarm line high with:

digitalWrite(INTERRUPT_PIN, HIGH);  //pull up the interrupt pin

Fortunately the pin stays high in all sleep modes and so far everything has been working with this setup (so fingers are crossed….again… 😉 )

Then I looked at the 200Ω resistor & 1N4148 diode (3) that are supposed to provide a trickle charge to the rechargeable battery, though the folks at BU suggest this is a bad idea.  The LiR2032 that these modules ship with is 3.6v, and while capacity varies depending on where you buy them, most provide 35mah to 45mah capacity. Looking at the power draw from the DS3231, a fully charged battery would keep the unit backed up for at least 200 days (in a perfect world, with no self discharge, etc)  But, it requires a 4.2v charging voltage for maximum charge, so vcc would have to be above 4.3-ish volts. I don’t anticipate my 3x AA power supply staying in that territory for the duration of a long deployment (especially if I end up powering the units from cheap AA’s) so there really was no compelling reason to keep the charging system in place. Once I de-soldered the resistor, I popped in a CR2032 (3v 240mAh) as a replacement which should backup the clock for several years of operation.

Libraries for that RTC?
I am using  the Date, Time and Alarm functions in the library from Mr Alvin’s github,
which is based largely on Jean-Claude Wippler’s (aka JeeLab) excellent RTC library.
And it’s worth noting the clear alarm interrupt issue over in the Arduino playground.

Then we come to the AT24C32N (2.7 to 5.5v) memory chip that is also on this breakout board.  Another of those 4 resistor bricks is lifting pins 1,2 and 3 to Vcc, so according to the eeprom datasheet this unit is being set to 0×57 on the I2C bus. There are pads there to ground out these lines if you need to reassign the address to something else.  Although I have already determined that eeprom is not the power savior I hoped it might be (all that eeprom reading & writing uses about 1/3 the power of simply writing the data to the SD card in the first place) it’s presence lets me be really lazy on the coding and just pop any numbers or characters that I want into a PSTRING’d buffer which then gets sent to a standard eeprom page writing routine.  This flexibility allows me to swap sensors with dramatically different output, while retaining essentially the same code to handle the eeprom loading and the transfer of data back out to the SD card. If you want more information about that you can head over my earlier post on buffering sensor data to an I2C eeprom for the gory details.

The current build of The data platform.

The May 2014 build of the data logging platform, which used a hacked Tinyduino light sensor board to regulate & pull up the I2C bus. SQW is soldered to interrupt pin 2.   Later in 2014 I switched to Pro Mini style boards with 3.3 v regulators, so I left that four resistor block in place ( 2 in the schematic above) to provide I2C and SQW pullup.

To top it all off, the cascade ports on the far side of the module let me “just barely” fit the rtc, the I2C hub (with corners sanded off), and main TinyDuino stack onto the platform in the middle of my housing. I am lifting the voltage regulated I2C bus traces from the TinyDuino light sensor board, so I am also hunting around for an off the shelf vreg & level shifter combination to replace that hack (because that bit of soldering is a pita). But overall, I am very happy with this build, as all the central data logging functions have come together into a nice securely mounted package, that should withstand significant knocking about during the deployment dives.  Of course there is plenty of field work testing still to be done, so time will tell (sorry, couldn’t resist…) if these cheap RTC’s will cause more trouble than they are worth.

Addendum: 2014-05-21
It just occurred to me that sooner or later Tinycircuits will be releasing an RTC board, and that will give me a chance to directly compare these cheap boards to a “trusted” clock signal provided that their chip does not want the same bus address.  Or if their clock wants the same I2C bus address as this eBay RTC, I could use a DS3234 on the SPI bus.  I will post an update when I can run that test to spot clock drift, alarm errors, etc. Several sites have mentioned that real DS3231’s drift about 2 seconds per month, while the cheaper ds1307’s drift 7-10 seconds per day. If you have the right equipment, you can make the chip even more accurate by adjusting the aging offset register.

Addendum: 2014-05-21
I just realized something else odd about my setup here. The I2c bus is held at 3.3 volts by the regulator on the tiny light sensor shield, but I am pulling up the SQW via the tinyduino cpu, which is following the voltage on the battery pack because the tiny CPU is unregulated. So the pull-up voltage on the alarm line is out of sync with the voltage seen by the rest of the DS3231 chip….hmmmm.
(2014-10-28 :  data sheet says its Ok to pull the line all the way up to 5v, even on Vbatt)

Addendum: 2014-07-01
I created a very inexpensive 3-component data logger with this RTC, a Pro Mini mcu board, and a cheap sd card adapter. And you can see a post about the latest version of that logger concept here which has added a power shutdown feature. In those Pro Mini based loggers I do not remove the I2C pullup resistor bank as shown earlier in this post (2 in the photo above), as the removal is only needed if you already have pullups in place, as I did when using the hacked Tinyduino light sensor board to drive the RTC.  I have built many loggers now, and some of them have come close to 400,000 alarms & eeprom write cycles, so these cheap RTCs are proving to be pretty durable.

Addendum: 2014-10-28     Pin Powering the RTC

Wedge tweezer tips behind the pin and "gently" lever it away from the board as you apply the solder iron to the pad.

Wedge a tweezer tip behind the pin and “gently” lever it away from the board as you apply an iron to the pad. Then solder your pin-power jumper directly onto that raised leg. At this point the chip’s Vcc pin is no longer connected to the Vcc line on the breakout board, so you can leave power on the board’s Vcc line to pullup SDA,SCL,SQW and supply power to any I2C devices / sensors you have connected to the cascade port.

I have noticed that when I power this module from Vcc at 3.3v, it draws around 89 µA. But according to the datasheet,the RTC should only draw ~2 µA on average when powered from Vbat.  (1µA baseline plus about 500µA for 100ms every 64 seconds when the crystal is doing temperature compensation) Nick Gammon found an elegant way to power a DS1307 by connecting Vcc to one of the Arduino pins , driven high in output mode when the system is active. (look about half way down the page)  When the Arduino pin is low, the clock reverts to battery power, and goes into the low current timekeeping mode.  But according to the datasheet, Bit 6 (Battery-Backed Square-Wave Enable) of control register 0Eh, can be set to 1 to force the wake-up alarms to occur when running the RTC from the back up battery alone. [note: This bit is disabled (logic 0) when power is first applied] So you can still use the RTC to wake the Arduino, even if you have de-powered it by bringing the pin low. I have tested this and it seems to work fine on my RTC modules, reducing the sleep current by about 70 µA. (or ~ 600 mAh per year = almost 1/4 of a AA) Tests are underway now to see if this is stable as a direct jumper to the pin without using a current limiter, which might give me a problem with inrush current unless I also add a resistor as N.G. did. Also keep in mind that this only works because the RTC was designed with backup power circuitry.  In general, de-powering I2C Slaves is not a good idea because the pullup resistors keep the SDA and SCL lines high. When a regular I2C sensor has no power, you could leak current via SDA and SCL through the I2C device to GND.

And since my loggers are going in caves where the temperature does not change very quickly, I am bumping the temp conversion time from 64 to 512 seconds as per Application note 3644, in theory reducing the battery drain to < 1 µA.  It’s a little unclear from that datasheet if this only really works on the DS3234 (?) but if it does this puts the battery discharge on par with electrolyte evaporation if Maxim’s coin cell lifespan estimates are to be believed.

And finally, doing this means that you are relying on the Cr2032 to power the clock for a substantial amount of time, so you need to make sure you are not using fake coin cell batteries. Name brand packaging is no guarantee of good batteries either! In learning this little lesson I discovered that you can not simply read a CR2032 coin cell with your volt meter to determine if it is healthy,  as the no-load voltage stays above 3v even when the cells are nearly dead. As per the Energiser datasheet, I read the cell with a 400 Ω resistor pulse load (for 2 seconds). If that gives me >3v I call the cell good. If you are stuck out in the field without a meter, check if the battery bounces well.

I do wonder if its worth putting a 100uF multilayer ceramic capacitor on the coin cell to buffer the impact of the alarm events. But I don’t know how much I would then loose to capacitor leakage. Abracon seems to think its a good idea in their application note, claiming 11 µA leakage for a 100µF MLCC. But that is more than 3x the current draw of the DS3231 in timekeeping mode.

NOTE: If you try powering the entire breakout board from a digital pin, you are essentially turning the onboard SDA & SCL resistors into pulldown resistors and these fight against the Atmels internal pullup resistors on the 328 that get enabled by default in the two wire library.  For details on how to fix that problem, check out this post on the Arduino playground:  DS3231 drawing 200+µA through SDA/SCL  Also note that I had to go all the way to   (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\wire\utility   to find the twi library on my machine, but if you power your DS3231 by lifting the pin from the board like I do, the library edit does not change the sleep current.

Addendum: 2014-11-04     Only $1 for 8x larger EEproms ?

This 32k AT24C256 is pin for pin compatible with the 4K AT24C32 on this RTC module. For only $1, it’s really tempting me to do one more little modification to the RTC breakout, although on reflection I think it might be quite handy to have two easily accessed eeproms in the system, using the smaller one for persistent storage of calibration & configuration info, and the other much larger one for sensor data. Keeping the 4K eeprom will limit the I2C bus speed to 100 kHz, while the larger AT24256 opens up the possibility of raising the I2C bus speed to 400 kHz. 

Addendum: 2014-11-05    Larger EEproms are 100% code compatible

I simply let the wires I am already using to tap the cascade port I2C lines poke up enough to give me solder points for the EEprom. Don't forget to remove the pullups on the EEprom board.

I simply let the wires I am already using to tap the I2C lines on the cascade port poke through, giving  me solder points for the eeprom. Don’t forget to remove the 10K’s on the little eeprom board or you could be left with too much pull-up on the bus. 15mm M2 standoffs give enough room to comfortably tuck the EEprom board under the RTC breakout.

Testing confirms that the AT24C256 is a drop in replacement. The code I was already using to write data to the eeprom on the RTC breakout worked fine provided I changed the I2c address to 0x50 (while the 4k eeprom on the rtc breakout is 0x57 because its address lines are pulled up). In my case, the larger eeprom allows me to buffer 512 of my two-page write cycles before having to transfer the data out to the SD card. And after some testing, I have confirmed that both eeproms go into standby mode at 1 µA when they are not being accessed. The only challenge is that this many buffered readings represents several days worth of data…so I will need to come up with some kind of procedure for shutting down the loggers without losing information. One solution would be to add a function that flushes the entire eeprom to the SD card during setup. That way simply hitting the reset button would make sure that any residual data in the buffer gets saved before I disconnect the batteries.

inline eeprom upgrades

Of course, you could do this with any I2C device.

In some of my older loggers that were put together ages ago, there is not enough space to easily do this jumpering right onto the RTC breakout, so I came up with some “in-line” eeprom upgrades that I could just drop in without changing any other wiring on the build.

Addendum: 2014-12-02     How to set more accurately?

I have recently run into another RTC related issue, which is how to set the RTC’s more accurately. Now that I have multiple data loggers on the go, the led pips show me that the loggers are as much as 4 seconds* different from each other, and that gets even more pronounced when I use different computers to upload sketches. Retrolefty has proposed one method for “syncing by hand” at the playground.  I will post some results when I find out if the Whac-A-Mole method reduces my inter-unit time offsets. 

One solution would be a sketch that uses an Ethernet shield and connects to an internet time server.  Then you could get the offsets down to average round-trip time (using the nearest NTP server) plus the serial communication. But I do not have an Ethernet shield, so that is a non-starter.  Some use a GPS for an accurate time signature, or a dedicated time signal receiver. But my PC is already synced, so buying hardware just to reproduce information that is already available seems like overkill. A more logical approach would be to have two programs, one running in the PC environment then second running inside Arduino. Then both programs could communicate (PC -> sends time stamp via serial line -> Arduino reads value from serial line & sets clock to match). I have not found a set like this yet.

In addition, I would like to have all my loggers running UTC, but that’s easily address by just setting my machine to UTC before setting the clock.  UTC avoids all the problems with ‘local’ daylight savings time, etc.

* It looks like I might have been causing that problem by opening the serial window to to check that the clock was updated properly. Makes me wonder why the RTC set sketch was written with serial output in the first place?

Addendum 2014-12-04      Accuracy testing

Someone at the allaboutcircuits.com forum has done accuracy verification testing on these cheap RTC boards and found the chip to be well within the DS3231’s “official” spec:

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/seen-the-new-high-accuracy-rtc-for-1-99.99839/

This is good to know, although of course one source/batch doesn’t confirm them all when you are dealing with cheep eBay knock-offs.   For a different approach to testing, jremington over at the playground notes:   “By comparing the rising edge of the RTC 1Hz square wave output to that of the 1 Hz PPS output of a GPS unit with a good satellite lock, you can determine within a few hours how much the RTC is drifting. ” 

See http://www.romanblack.com/onesec/High_Acc_Timing.htm
(no need to use a PIC, though…)

Addendum 2014-12-06     Temp. register more accurate than I was expecting

I have been noodling around with new sensor combinations for my next set of builds, and I thought I would post a quick overnight comparison of the DS3231 temperature register ( rated at ±3°C ) to data from the Adafruit MCP9808 ( ± 0.25°C ).

Degree Celsius vs Time:     (5 min samples)

DS3231 temp sensor VS mcp9809 temp sensor

 You can see that the DS3231 has a much lower bit depth, but I was pleasantly surprised by how closely they tracked each other. If the datasheet claims are to be believed, the 9808 should be dead-on in this temperature range. This gives me more faith in the data from that humble RTC, which currently records ambient temperature in my drip sensors.

Addendum Update: Although I did not catch it when I posted this graph, I was converting the LSB portion of the temperature register with:

TEMP_degC = ((((short)MSB << 8) | (short)LSB) >> 6) / 4.0;
from Coding Badly at the Arduino forum. There should have been no “bumps” on that graph smaller than 0.25°C.  But what I was actually getting a mix of  xx.00,  xx.25,  xx.244 and xx.238  in my data. No half degrees, and no temps that read xx.75 You can see those temps are missing, as “steps” in that graph.

So I tried this code to fix that with this code from the Arduino forum:

Wire.beginTransmission(DS3231_ADDRESS);
Wire.write(0x11); //location of Temp register MSB, LSB at 0x12
Wire.endTransmission();

Wire.requestFrom(DS3231_ADDRESS, 2);
bytebuffer1 = Wire.read(); // Here’s the MSB which is an int
bytebuffer2 = Wire.read();  bytebuffer2 = bytebuffer2 >> 6;
// the upper 2 bits of the LSB represent quarter degrees 00=.00 01=.25 10=.50 11=.75

TEMP_degC = float(bytebuffer1);

switch(bytebuffer2){
case 0:
TEMP_degC = TEMP_degC + 0.00;
break;
case 1 :
TEMP_degC = TEMP_degC + 0.25;
break;
case 2:
TEMP_degC = TEMP_degC + 0.50;
break;
case 3:
TEMP_degC = TEMP_degC + 0.75;
break;
}
// see http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=262986.15 for temps below zero with no floats

But I got the same result with that code too which is very puzzling to me??  Where are the  .238 fractional temperatures coming from? Why do I never see xx.5 or xx.75 temperatures?

Addendum Update Update:

So it turns out that both examples of code above work fine, but the way I was converting the fractional part of the decimal (so I could print them as integers: printing real #’s takes too much ram) was incorrect.  All my other temperature sensors provide at least three digits of information after the decimal place so I had been using   fracTemp=(TEMP_degC – wholeTemp) * 1000; to extract the fractional data. But this did not work for the RTC fractional data.  Changing it to fracTemp=(TEMP_degC*100) – (wholeTemp*100); converts the decimal part of the RTC temperature into integer values normally. Thanks to Stack Exchange for showing me that you need determine exactly how many decimal points you want to turn into the integer before you do a conversion like this, or the calculation yields weird results. In my case the error changed xx.05 into xx.0244, and xx.75 into xx.238. Fortunately that error was correctable, so here is what that graph should have looked like:

CorrectedDS3231

Addendum 2014-12-20

Recent fieldwork gave me a chance to check clock drift on six loggers using these RTC boards. All of these RTCs were set at the end of August and over the course of about 4 months, all of them lost between 30-40 seconds. That puts these cheap units over the minute per year territory that I see claimed for “real” DS3231 breakouts like the Chronodot, but not by enough to make me worry too much as this was a pretty crude test. These modules are still far better than any DS1307 alternatives

Addendum 2015-01-11

Obvious, I know, but

Obvious, I know, but it still took me ages to realize it…

I have been putting together some smaller underwater sensors using two inch pvc pipe, and the tight curved profile of the housing forced me to flip the RTC over.  As soon as I did this, I realized that I should have been mounting the RTC this way all along, as it makes it easy to replace the coin cell without undoing the nuts on the standoff bolts. And if I am going to be pin-powering the RTC, I will probably need to change those coin cells regularly. It also lets me use shorter 12mm standoffs and still tuck everything under the RTC.

Addendum 2015-01-22     Unix time for logging

Steve Hicks over at envirodiy.org has posted on how to convert the DS3231’s epoch time (ie: #number of seconds since January 1, 2000) into unix time and here they convert unix time into Excel standard dates with [=CELL/(60*60*24)+”1/1/1970″  note: you have to have the RTC set to UTC for this to work].  Using epoch time lets you store or compare times as a single 32-bit number (another conversion method here) rather that dealing with 6 numbers and details like the number of days in each month and leap years.  A very handy tip. You can view a datalogger script example using  long epoch = now.unixtime(); over on Github.

P.S. MrAlvin’s RTC library  (a fork of Jeelabs RTClib) yeilds unix time with:

DateTime now = RTC.now();
followed by:
Serial.print(“Seconds since midnight 1/1/1970 = “);
Serial.print(now.unixtime());

But if yours does not, it is fairly easy to calculate an epoch time integer from the standard YY MM DD MM SS format,  if you have your clocks set to UTC.

Addendum 2015-03-11     Monitoring coincell with a divider

The resistors tuck up nicely under the header pins, which I fold back in my newer builds.

The coin cell monitoring divider tucks nicely under the header pins, which I fold back in my builds for the small diameter housings. The two resistors take the voltage to 1/2 actual, as some of my coin cells read higher than my system voltage of 3.3v when they are new and have no loads on them.

I have decided to pin power all of my next generation of loggers, including the long chains of DS18b20 temperature sensors I have been working on.  But I still don’t know exactly how much impact generating the interrupts will have on the coin cell over time, so I have added a voltage divider connected to the backup coin cell on RTC board, with the center drawn off to an analog input pin on the Arduino. I am hoping these 4.7 MΩ resistors will add only 0.35µA draw to the ground line and perhaps double that when the ADC input capacitor is being charged for a reading. The readings wobble a bit without a capacitor to stabilize them, but I was afraid that leakage on an MLCC would be larger than the RTC’s sleep current so I left it out. I read the pin three times with a 1ms delay, throwing away the first reading and averaging the next two, and that gets me a reading pretty close to what I see on an external volt meter. But CR2032‘s are lithium batteries, so I might need to put some kind of load on the coin cell to actually read it’s capacity. I was thinking I could do this by forcing a temperature conversion while the pin power is removed. (setting bit5 of reg 0Eh which draws 575 µA for 125-200 ms)  This approach would waste some energy and create time delays, so I will do my first few test runs without the “load” to see if I can interpret the reading from that voltage divider without it. 

Addendum 2015-03-13     Enabling Battery Backed Alarms

There is another question about pin powering these RTC’s that is niggling at the back of my mind: What happens when I have Battery-Backed Square-Wave Enable set with:

i2c_setRegisterBit (DS3231_ADDRESS,  DS3231_CONTROL_REG,  6,  1);

so the RTC generates alarms when it is powered only by the backup battery, and then I disconnect power to the main Arduino before the next alarm?  Presumably the alarm still gets generated, but nothing can respond and reset it. My hope is that the open-drain SQW pin, which should only sink current, does not somehow create a circuit through the Arduino that bleeds away power in this situation. Especially now that I have the voltage divider in place…?

Addendum 2015-04-01      Drift checks

To do the drift check, I screen grab the output of a sketch that outputs the current RTC time with the windows system clock. Both are running UTC, and I make sure the computers clock was sync'd via the web time servers.

To do the drift check, I screen grab the terminal window of a sketch that outputs the current RTC time with the windows system clock. Both are running UTC, and I make sure the computers clock was sync’d via web time servers.

I just returned from another fieldwork trip, and I had the chance to do proper RTC drift checks on twelve data loggers that were deployed in Dec. 2014. After three months of operation they all had offsets between -24 to -30 seconds, and the remarkable consistency across these units made me suspect that I was looking at something other than random errors.  I reset the clocks with the little netbook I had on hand, and re-checked the clocks. Sure enough every one of them was reading the current time -24 seconds. I checked the time on the six new new loggers that I had prepared before the trip and every one of them was exactly nine seconds slow (my computer back home is much faster than the netbook I take into the field). When I reset those new loggers with the netbook every one of them became 24 seconds slow.  So it looks like the time lag caused by the compile & upload of the RTC set sketch was responsible for the majority of the offsets I reported back in December, and that these DS3234SN RTC’s actually have a drift somewhere between 0-5 seconds over a three month deployment. This is well within the manufacturers spec. And now that I know the compile time is the limiting factor, at least I can be certain that the units all have the same negative time offset before each deployment.

NOTE: With further testing I have found that if you simply hit the verify button before you hit the upload button, the resulting RTC time offset is reduced to 1/2 (or more for slower systems). On my home based system this reduced lag caused by the compile & upload  from ~20 seconds to about 9 seconds. I expect to see even more of a difference on my really slow netbook. In theory you can improve things even more by removing the verify option as you upload. The RTC time setting sketch is the only place where I would risk errors to get to a faster upload time, since I immediately have to replace the RTC “setting” sketch with a “read time only” sketch to confirm it worked anyway.

Update 2016-10-14: I’ve been referring here to the setTime sketch that used to be provided with MrAlvin’s library. This sets the RTC to the compile time with the command
RTC.adjust(DateTime(__DATE__, __TIME__)); His new version has a method of setting the time using the serial monitor, which removes the compile time lag time problem. I’ve gotten used to using setTime & getTime , so I still keep a copy of those older utilities on my GitHub. Paul Stoffregens DS1307 library uses the same compile time method to set the DS3231, but you have to install his Time library as well.

The datasheet reccomends a delay before setting: “Communication with the I²C should be held off at least for the first 2 seconds after a valid power source has been established. It is during the first 2 seconds after power is established that the accurate RTC starts its oscillator, recalls calibration codes, initiates a temperature sensor read, and applies a frequency correction.”

Also worth noting Luca Dentella’s RTCSetup (compiled exe version –you need only RTCSetup.exe)  that will automatically sync your RTC to the PC via serial if you already have Adafruits RTC lib installed.

Addendum 2015-04-05      Accidental High Temp Drift Check

Just digging into the recent data set, and noticed that one of the drip sensors we left out on the surface (to act as a rain gauge) got baked as the local climate went into the dry season:

Cave Pearl DIY housings made from PVC

This is the record from the RTC, and I am surprised the batteries did not pop with the loggers internal temp hitting 60°C.  The good news is that even after subjecting the RTC to this ordeal, the drift for this unit was the same as the units that were left down in the caves. This logger went back out for another stint in the tropical sun, as I am a firm believer in testing my builds to their limits.

Addendum 2015-04-07      Waking a logger with the RTC alarm

That last deployment saw several loggers run successfully with pin powered RTC’s so I though I should post the little code snippet I use to do that. I have the de-powering embedded inside the function that puts my loggers to sleep

In setup:    (note brackets missing around includes!)

#include LowPower.h   // https://github.com/rocketscream/Low-Power
#include RTClib.h         // https://github.com/MrAlvin/RTClib
#define RTCPOWER_PIN   7 // this is the pin I have jumpered to the RTC’s vcc leg

So after the setting the next alarm time in the main program loop

RTC.setA1Time(Alarmday, Alarmhour, Alarmminute, Alarmsecond, 0b00001000, false, false, false);
//The variables ALRM1_SET bits and ALRM2_SET are 0b1000 and 0b111 respectively.
RTC.turnOnAlarm(1);

I use this function to de-power the RTC and the data logger

void sleepNwait4RTC()
{
//
#ifdef RTCPOWER_PIN        //if using pin power on RTC, now depower it:
pinMode (RTCPOWER_PIN, INPUT);
digitalWrite(RTCPOWER_PIN, LOW);
// driving pin LOW FORCES to the RTC to draw power from the coin cell during sleep
#endif
//
noInterrupts ();       // make sure we don’t get interrupted before we sleep
attachInterrupt(0,clockTrigger, LOW);
interrupts ();           // interrupts allowed now, next instruction WILL be executed
LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_FOREVER, ADC_OFF, BOD_OFF);
detachInterrupt(0);  //HERE AFTER WAKING UP
//
#ifdef RTCPOWER_PIN
digitalWrite(RTCPOWER_PIN, HIGH);      // about to generate I2C traffic
pinMode (RTCPOWER_PIN, OUTPUT);    // so provide power to the RTC
#endif
//
}

and clocktrigger is the ISR that updates a variable checked in the main loop

void clockTrigger() {
clockInterrupt = true;
}

So there you have it. After 3 months of reliable operation, and no coin cells killed off in the process, I am calling this good. BTW this is how I currently connect the RTC boards to the Arduino:

Standard logger connection

For more information on how I assemble these data logger platforms, see Sensors 2018:   A Flexible Arduino-Based Logging Platform for Long-Term Monitoring in Harsh Environments  [open access – PDF is free to download]

Addendum 2015-06-10     Running the I2C bus at 400khz

After finding Rob Tillarts multispeed I2C bus scanner, I was happy to notice that all my I2C devices showed up on the higher speed scans.  So I have started pushing the bus to faster 400 khz  speeds with TBWR=2 on the 8Mhz boards, and TBWR=12 on the 16Mhz boards right after Wire.begin();     The DS3231 is rated for it.  The larger AT24C256 eeprom that I have been adding to my loggers is also rated to that speed, but even the smaller AT24c32 on the RTC board seems to work ok at the higher I2C bus speeds, though it is only rated to 100kHz.  Since I had been using the I2C communication delays as part of my led pips, I could immediately see shortened operating time (my pips became too short to see) . I have some doubts about whether a humble 8Mhz Arduino can run the I2C bus that fast. Without a scope, or some way to determine the capacitance on the lines, there’s no way to know if I’m actually reaching 400khz with the 4.7kΩ pullups on that RTC breakout.  But with quite a few run tests going well thus far, I think add the TBWR settings to my standard code build to shorten mcu up time.

Addendum 2015-06-17     Risking (?) Ultrasonic Bath Cleanings

I finally picked up a cheap ultrasonic cleaner, and used it on a batch of 12 of these RTC boards with some 90% Isopropyl alcohol.

Since these boards are always covered with flux, I picked up a cheap ($15) ultrasonic cleaner and used it on a batch of 12 of these boards with 90% Isopropyl alcohol. After the cleaning I put the used fluid in a jar, and this batch of goo settled out. I know that ultrasonic cleaning is very bad for oscillators, but flux corrosion is lethal too…

I have done a few more tests using a 2x 4.7MΩ  divider to monitor the coin cell. The divider definitely works but as expected it also bleeds 0.32µA from the coin cell when the Arduino is powered & sleeping. If I remove power from the whole Arduino, the current drain from the battery through the divider rises to almost double that at 0.56µA. Pin Powering the RTC during uptime and letting it go into  timekeeping mode (3 µA) while the Arduino sleeps (with the coincell divider in place)  appears to be causing a 5-7mV drop per day on the CR2032 coin cell. With the 2300 mV minimum for the DS3232’s vBatt, that probably means the coin cells will only provide about 4-5 months of pin powering before the little cells need to be replaced. This is a somewhat irritating as I thought I would get more time than that from the 240 mAh coin cells. I am suspecting there are other drains occurring somewhere.

One trick I can try is to set the coincell reading analog pin to INPUT_PULLUP with a pinmode setting while the Arduino sleeps. This would raise the middle of the voltage divider to 3.3v – above the coincell. This will also send 0.7µA  from the analog pin through the grounded leg of the divider. When I tried this I found that it also pushes about 0.03µA back towards the coin cell’s positive battery terminal where I have the divider connected I don’t know if that power is flowing into the lithium coin cell (which is probably bad for CR2032’s – but perhaps it would be ok with an LIR2032?) or into the RTC somehow (?) So this strategy would shut down the divider power leakage from the coin cell and hand it off to the much larger main batteries.  This is much lower than the 89µA that the RTC draws if you power it via the Vcc line, but it seems a bit dodgey to flip flop between analog and digital modes on that pin all the time.

I will have to do more tests before I trust that this is not hurting the RTC or the Arduino. Having the lithium coin cells catch fire when their voltage got low would not make my day either. And if I was going to have a small constant drain from one of the pins I might as well just replace the coin cell backup battery with a capacitor – which could be kept charged by the pin that I am currently using to check the backup battery voltage. That way I’d never have to worry about changing the RTC batteries once I got the system rolling…hmmmm…I wonder what the capacitor leakage current would be?

P.S. In my tests to date, the faster 400khz I2c bus settings settings still seem to be working OK.

Addendum 2015-07-23     Backup battery only power looks OK

Looks like my earlier concern about the new divider creating and excessive drain the RTC backup battery were unfounded. Several of my bench test loggers saw an initial drop off but all of them seem to have leveled out around a nominal 3.05 v.

CoinCellVoltageLevelingOff

Most of the new batch have this 2 x 4.7 MΩ divider in place and I am now confident that it will be Ok to deploy those units, which likely will not be retrieved till the end of the year. Btw there is a fantastic page over at ganssle.com testing the behavior of CR2032 batteries at low currents. Granssle’s article on Issues in Using Ultra-Low Power MCUs is worth reading. Hackaday’s  post on  TI processors shows how far the art in low power operation goes.  Ignoring self discharge, a CR2032 should be able to last about 4 years if the average draw stays below 5 µA, and the divider is adding ~ 0.7 µA to the RTC’s base load.  Actually the DS3231 datasheet specifies the average battery current is less than 3.0 mico-amps, so a typical 200 mAh CR2032 should be able to supply that for about seven years.

Addendum 2015-10-30

Just a quick update on that coin cell reading. I continued that test (on a logger with 20 DS18B20 temp sensors) and the coin cell voltage rose after the break then fell again to about 3040mv:

cr2031 voltage on pin powerd ds3231 RTC module data logger

cr2031 voltage on pin powerd ds3231 RTC module data logger

So at least I am not seeing a catastrophic fail when trying to read the coin cell, but I am still left with the question of whether this reading actually means anything, given that the loading on these lithium cells is a mere 3μA when the RTC is in timekeeping mode. (If straight ADC reads don’t work, I might try the LED/resistor method so that the coincell is loaded during the readings)  I still might be shortening the lifespan of my loggers below my one year target with the pin powering technique if the coin cells can’t go the distance. At 150-200 mAh /cell, there should be no problem…but I have made the mistake of counting those chickens before. And I still might need that 1µF cap across the lower resistor, which in theory will cost me ~1nA in leakage.

Note: Data from the batch of loggers deployed in Aug 2015 displays a similar pattern to my bench test results:

RTC coin cell (mV)

RTC coin cell (mV) record from a real world drip sensor deployment

All the loggers using 2×4.7MΩ dividers to track the coin cell  leveled out somewhere between 3020 & 3040 mV, and I attribute the differences there to ADC & resistor offsets. So I will adopt this as a standard part of my new builds.

Addendum 2016-01-08

Usually the IC pads are bridged, but this is another typical soldering error you see on $1 stuff the 'bay

The most common manufacturing defect I see is IC bridged pads from bad reflow, but you also see tombstone errors like this on $1 eBay boards…

I prep these RTC’s in runs of 10 to 20 pieces, as this makes the best use of the isopropyl alcohol in the ultrasonic bath. While I was de-soldering resistors on the latest batch (to disable that useless charging circuit) I realized that the first part of the  UNO based Datalogger Tutorial (that I put together to help some teacher friends of mine bring Arduinos into the classroom) gives you  great platform for testing a bunch of these RTC’s quickly. You can just pop them onto the breadboard in quick succession before you invest any time cleaning them up. You don’t even need to put the battery in! And the code that I posted to Github for that logger is about the simplest example you are likely to find of how to use this RTC breakout to wake a sleeping Arduino.

Addendum 2016-01-16

Just stumbled across a post at Arduino Stackexchange on combining day-month-year data into strings, and using that as a date-stamp file name. This could be handy for “threshold/event” based loggers, as opposed to the more typical take a sample every X minutes approach.  I think this method is limited by fat16 to generating a max of 512 entries in the root directory.

Addendum 2016-01-21

Data from a cave deployment of one of our multi-sensor units:

Multiple temp sensor comparison

The MS5803 is a 24bit pressure sensor which has a metal ring in contact with the air, while the TMP is 12-bit sensor embedded under 3-4mm of epoxy, and the DS3231 RTC is inside the housing body

so I am impressed again with the temp accuracy of those humble RTCs. This is also a really great illustration of what you gain when you add more bits to your temperature record.

Addendum 2016-02-13

Over at raspberry-pi-geek.com they did some benchmarks with four I2C RTC’s:  the DS1307, the PCF8563, the DS3231, and the MCP79400. Their graphs show the DS3231 as the overall winner, suggesting that this is is a result of the temperature compensation. It will be interesting to see if they do the tests over again with temp variation to see how this affects the RTCs accuracy.

Addendum 2016-02-26     Using a super cap for backup power?

This is one of the shots Posted by Tam at the forum

One of Tominaksi’s photos of his retrofit. There actually are capacitors built to coin cell shape/size specs for this purpose over at Mouser, but they are not much larger capacity than the 0.22F he used.

Just stumbled across a playground forum thread where user Tominakasi tried replacing the backup battery with a capacitor .  He reached 24 hours of operation with a 0.22F , but I would need significantly more time than that in a logger application.  If I play with some datasheet numbers over at Maxim’s Super Capacitor Calculator, it looks like it might be feasible with a one farad cap. But folk’s over at Sparkfun, seem to think that leakage current would be a serious problem.  Since I am already tracking the coin cell voltage with a resistor divider on the top of these boards, I think I will pickup a 5v 1F super cap and try an experiment to find out how long it actually takes for it fall to the RTC’s 2.3v minimum. It would not take much to connect one end of that cap to a separate digital pin and then top it up when necessary because the Arduino will keep a pin driven high even while sleeping. Probably not worth doing for a regular logger, but if I was building something completely potted in epoxy… hmmmm…

Note: HarryCh reports at the playground forum, a Panasonic EECS5R5H474 0.47F super cap charged to 3.3 v via the existing charge circuit, was able to power to the RTC chip for two days before falling to 2.21v, and four days before falling to 1.73V.

Addendum 2016-03-04

There must be a million great clock projects out there, but I stumbled across a couple recently that looked like they would be fun to build. The idea embedded in the Laser Cut Clock by [Buckeyeguy89] really has legs, and I think it could go on to some very interesting higher levels of complexity.  And I am sure that I am not alone in drooling over the Ferrofluid Clock by Zelf Koelma, to the point of wondering how I could drive batch of small electromagnets with an Arduino…

Addendum 2016-04-07     Date your coin cell batteries

Another coin cell curve (mV) from a longer deployment:

RTCdivider047

Should have been doing this from the start

Should have been doing this from the start…

This was from a 2×4.7 MΩ set,  so I am more confident that we will go a year even with the added drain from the divider.  I have since switched over to using 10 meg Ω resistors, but there is some question of whether the ADC sample & hold caps can will get enough current to read that properly.   I’ve been dating the coin cells with a marker to help keep a tab on their lifespan.

Addendum 2016-04-21

Just had to post a link to the Arduino Sport Watch Instructable by Alexis Ospitia which combines this DS3231 board with a pro-mini and one of the ubiquitous Nokia 5110 LCDs. 

Addendum 2016-05-21

There are a host of changes coming as the ATmega 328p becomes the 328pb.  But relevant to this thread, the full-swing oscillator driver circuitry is being removed. While this won’t affect a low&slow application like data loggers, it might spur a few more people to look into the 32K output from these boards. If that’s your thing, there are some interesting frequency measurement guidelines over at sitime.com

Addendum 2016-05-18

Just had to add a shout out here to Luke Millers Tide Clock as a great use for the DS3231 breakout, and a great addition to his Open Wave Height logger project. There are only a handful of us focusing on underwater logging, and his work on the MS5803 was a great contribution.

Addendum 2016-06-13    Caps to buffer intermittent load on coin cells?

ButtonCellTesterI’ve been trying out some $2 coin cell testers from eBay, and so far they seem to be working ok.  There’s a big logger service trip coming up, and this will come in handy.

Ti also has an interesting article on using caps to buffer intermittent loads powered by a CR2032. Coin cells: The mythical milliAmp-hour over at Hackaday goes into other details, with the takeaway being you should always let your batteries rest for 25 ms or more between load-pulses if you can. How much energy you really get from a coin cell depends on the maximum current you need to draw from it, and the DS3231 temperature conversion means the cell will see a pulsed load of 0.57mA every 64 seconds.

Addendum 2016-07-02     Excel Tricks for Time Series Data

Times in Excel are factional values of 24 hours. One hour of time is 1/24, and 1 minute of time is 1/(24*60) = 1/1440 – so always enter time increments ‘as fractions’ in the cell rather than numbers.  There is an interesting time-related function in Excel that is really useful to know about if you are trying to isolate subsets from your time series data:

…use a helper column and then filter on the results of the helper column. Assuming your date/time record starts at A2, and column B is available, then enter the time interval you wish to filter on in cell B1 (e.g 10 or 30 etc). Then enter the following formula in cell B2 and copy it down the rest of the column:

=MOD(MINUTE(A2),$b$1)=0

This will provide a TRUE/FALSE value if the time conforms to the interval value contained in cell B1. Then filter all the records based on the TRUE values in column B.

I tend to run my bench tests pretty fast to give new builds a real workout, but then I end up with far more data than I need for calibration / normalization.  This little trick works a charm to bring that back to more typical 15 minute sample intervals.

And while we are on the topic of time in Excel, it’s worth mentioning that the program sometimes refuses to convert time stamps from commercial loggers into its native number format. In that case you end up having to extract and convert each piece of text data with a =DATE(year, month, day)  and =TIME(hours, minutes, seconds). As an example, converting some weather station times tamps that looked like this 01.01.2009 02:00 ended up needing this beast:

=DATE(MID(B2,7,4),MID(B2,4,2), LEFT(B2,2)) + TIME(MID(B2,12,2), RIGHT(B2,2),0)

If you google around you can find good guides explaining how to do that, but it’s still a pain the backside.   

A much trickier problem is dealing with badly formed dates that are already in Excel’s native format.   Aside from randomly missing data, the second most common problem with weather station data that you download from other sources is that the time serial number (where 2014-1-1 8:00 is actually stored as 41640.3333) has an odd rounding error or other random cruft somewhere down at the 9th decimal place. This will mess up any kind of sorting/comparing in formulas even if the dates are being displayed perfectly fine. The trick is to convert both sets of excel dates into plain text with B5=TEXT(C3,”dd/mm/yyyy hh:mm”), and then re-convert that text back into date & time as described above  [with  C5=DATEVALUE(LEFT(B5,10)) &  D5=TIMEVALUE(MID(B5,12,8))]  then concatenate them back together with =C5+D5. Then your hidden-flaw excel date serials, become perfect excel dates again, and all your sorting, etc. starts working again. Don’t forget to check for local vs UTC/GMT timestamps. If you need to add 6.5 hours to a time stamp, that’s done with =C5 + TIME(6,30,0)  

Another common problem for loggers used in the field is when your RTC gets reset to the Jan 1st 2000 by a hard bump that momentarily dislodges the backup coin cell contact. You will know the installation date/time based on your field notes, but then you have to re-constitute the timestamps from scratch. The key to doing for long periods is not to use excels drag-fill feature as this will create substantial and ever increasing errors in the generated time stamp. Create the first time stamp ‘manually’ and then to add one minute to the previous cell, use this formula:=previous cell +1/1440, if you want to add one second to cell, use this formula: =A2+1/86400. There will still be a small rounding errors in each subsequently generated time stamp but using fractions will use all of the bits available to excel – so those errors will be small.

And since we are on the topic of useful Excel tricks, another one that is often needed with environmental data sets is determining local daily maxima values with multi-cell peaks. Then you can label those events in your time series.  If you need peak detection of a time series to happen ‘live’ on your logger, then a modified median filter is the way to go.

Excel sometimes refuses to parse dates that arrive as ascii data from a datalogger, even when they are perfectly formatted. In situations where excel simply will not interpret timestamps that look like a ‘date’, sound like a ‘date’, and probably even smells and tastes like a ‘date’ – then try using a helper column with the formula =DATEVALUE(date_text)  But hey, there are worse problems to have with excel…right?

Addendum 2016-08-03       Apple computers have no UTC?

I was showing a friend how to set the time this RTC recently, when we made the surprising discovery that you can not easily set the system clock on an Apple to UTC.  You can select London, England,  however England uses daylight savings time and as a result uses GMT (UTC+0) during the winter and British Summer Time (UTC+1) during the summer. (aka selecting London as the city to base my timezone does not provide UTC year round, only in the winter). A bit of hunting revealed that there are other cities in the GMT timezone that do not use daylight savings time such as Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, and there are other fixes out there if you are willing to go under the hood. But its just hard to believe that Apple made it so hard to set a computer to the global time standard…weird.

Addendum 2016-09-09       Direct MOSFET power control by DS3231 Alarms?

With long startup latencies & initialization issues in the SDfat library,  I haven’t pursued approaches that remove power from my loggers between samples.  But I’ve been reading about what might be the most elegant approach to the complete shutdown method for data logging applications:  Using the RTC alarm (which outputs low) to control  a P-channel Mosfet (AO3401) on the high side of the main battery supply.  When the INT/SQW alarm goes low, it turns the mosfet on and powers everything including the main mcu board which would then goes to work taking samples and storing data. Then the final step after a sample is taken would be to re-program the time for the next RTC alarm, and then write zeros to the alarm flag registers (A1F and/or A2F) which would then release the INT line on the gate of the mosfet. (you would need a pullup resistor on the gate to make sure the pFet turned off properly).   Geir Andersen discusses this over at LetsMakeRobots, and I think it’s the method that he used on the Deadbug shield.   Even more interesting were hints that this approach was used with an ESP8266 to build a mains dimmer switch.  Food for though, as I can see how stabilizing the Mosfet control line might be a little bit tricky, and in my case, the main battery voltage is higher than the RTC’s 5.5v maximum, so I would have to use a lower voltage battery as the main power supply.

Addendum 2016-12-31      More Drift Checks

I tweak the code on most of my loggers between deployments so often only the more unusual sensor combinations get run for long periods of time without a clock reset . The last round of fieldwork had me updating several of those old dogs, most of whom had been running for more than a year, and this let me do some RTC drift checks. There were two end members for the set; with one unit losing 1.1 seconds per month, and another gaining 1.4 seconds per month. Most of the other loggers drifted forward by ~ 1/2 second per month. So my two worst-case units have drift rates about twice as large as the 0.026 seconds per day they saw at SwitchDoc Labs, but most of my units are in good agreement with their benchmarks.  HeyPete.com is doing detailed testing, and usually sees +/- 0.5ppm (~16 seconds a year of drift) which is less than the +/- 2ppm allowed in the spec.  He has also de-capped a few of the chips, and verified that these cheap Chinese RTC modules are not made with counterfeit chips.

All of these loggers were in a very stable thermal environment (ie. a cave) at around 24°C.  Depowering the RTC does not seem to increase the drift, (in fact David Pilling found that timekeeping on these boards actually improves when you disable the lithium coin cell charging circuit) and the coin cells look like they will last well past two years with this level of drain, but it’s still uncertain exactly when they will quit due to flat lithium discharge curve.

And while we have plenty of high-precision sensors for temperature data, the RTC registers continue provide a convenient ‘inside the housing’ record:

Cave Pearl data loggers

(The log shown above is from a very dynamic site with several entrances to provide airflow, but most of the other temp. records hover near the bit toggling point all year. )

While there is a lot of lag in the RTC temperature reading due to the thermal mass of the housing, these logs still provide a good sanity check when my other sensors are starting to fail.

Addendum 2017-01-18

Hackaday released a post on the quartz crystal resonators which provide the heartbeat for  RTC modules and Kerry Wong demonstrates how to adjust the aging offset register with a HP 5350B in high resolution mode.  The aging offset register is at 0x10 and the valid values for the parameter ranges from -128 to 127. That # is converted into 2’s complement before sending to DS3232. Each adjustment step changes the clock frequency by roughly 0.1ppm -which translates into roughly between 0.002 to 0.003 Hz. If I understand things correctly, the aging offset is most often used to correct problems with RTC that are running more slowly as they age, and that does seem to be the most common offset I observe in deployed units. 

Adafruit has produced a DS3231 module, if you want something more compact than these cheap eBay units, without the EEprom.

Addendum 2017-02-15     Circular buffer on the EEprom

I just noticed that the RTClib from Adafruit supports the use of this RTC with an ESP8266, which will come in handy in future.  And there is another library out that makes use of the eeprom on these boards for circular buffer logging. Given the limitations of the ESP, a combination of those two could prove very useful…

Addendum 2017-02-22     Update the alarm time using modulo

After looking at the old logger code I have posted on the projects Github, Mark Behbehani emailed more elegant way to update the next alarm time using modulo, rather a cascade of if statements:

The calling code:

pinMode (RTCPOWER_PIN, OUTPUT); // RTC vcc connected to this pin
digitalWrite(RTCPOWER_PIN, HIGH);
delay(15);
DateTime now = RTC.now();
SetNextAlarmTime(now); RTC.turnOnAlarm(1);
delay(5);  //give the RTC a few ms to finish operations
pinMode (RTCPOWER_PIN, INPUT);
digitalWrite(RTCPOWER_PIN, LOW);


//  (Current minutes + Sample time) % 60  will give min for next alarm
//  then utilize mask bits to ignore Hours and days, set seconds to 00
//  Bit 7 on (AM3, AM4) 0x0C 0x0D to 1 and only min sec match
//  i2c_writeRegBits(DS3231_ADDRESS,DS3231_ALARM1_HOUR,1,Bit7_MASK);
//  i2c_writeRegBits(DS3231_ADDRESS,DS3231_ALARM1_DAY,1,Bit7_MASK);
//  Using the existing libraries you can call
//  rtc.getA1Time(byte A1Day, byte A1Hour, byte A1Minute, byte A1Second,
//  byte AlarmBits, bool A1Dy, bool A1h12, bool A1PM
//  Pull in Day,Hour,Min,Sec
//  For sec (or min) interval (Sec+intval)%60 for Hours sest (H+intval)%24
//  Using AlarmBits X|A2M4|A2M3|A2M2|A1M4|A1M3|A1M2|A1M1 to set mask to ignore
//  Update only variable of interest for secintval Sec, for min interval Min,s=00

void  SetNextAlarmTime(DateTime now) {       // this replaces my cascade code
RTC.getA1Time(Alarmday, Alarmhour, Alarmminute, Alarmsecond, AlarmBits, ADy, Ah12, APM);
if (SampleIntSeconds > 0){   //then our alarm is in (SampleInterval) seconds
Alarmsecond = (now.second() + SampleIntSeconds) %60;
// gives seconds from 0-59 sec e.g. 50s+15 = 65s  65 %60=5s
AlarmBits = 0b00001110;  // set to ignore any match other than seconds
RTC.setA1Time(Alarmday, Alarmhour, Alarmminute, Alarmsecond, AlarmBits, 0, 0, 0);
}
else {      //means seconds is set to zero and use SampleIntervalMinutes
Alarmsecond = 0;  //force matching on even min
Alarmminute = (now.minute()+ SampleIntervalMinutes) % 60; // gives from 0-59
AlarmBits = 0b00001100;  // set to ignore days, hours but match min, sec
RTC.setA1Time(Alarmday, Alarmhour, Alarmminute, Alarmsecond, AlarmBits, 0, 0, 0);
}

That’s the first time I’ve seen modulo being used, and I think it’s quite elegant. (with the quid pro quo that the modulus (%) operator is quite demanding on the 8-bit AVRs)

Addendum 2017-04-06

Following on that modulo comment, I came across a post using it to encode dates with only 7 alpha characters, as opposed to the standard 10 digits you would see with the ascii version of a Unixtime date.  Of course, if you take samples at whole minute intervals, you can use Unixtime/(sample interval*60) with no data loss. If you take samples every 15 min, then you are dividing the unix time by 900; reaching the same 7 character size without any complicated algorithm.

Addendum 2017-04-11     Can I make diode-OR behavior?

I just noticed that Energisers CR2031 coin cell datasheet lists something interesting: Max Reverse Charge: 1 µA  With the number of people warning about non-rechargeable cells exploding if you put them in a trickle charge circuit, I’ve simply been removing the charge circuit resistor. But with their 20-30 ohms of internal series resistance,  I am now wondering if the relatively low 3.3v Vcc on my promini’s means that the voltage drop on the resistor & 1N4148 diode combination would give me enough wiggle room to keep the coin cell below that rev charge spec, while still supplying the 0.3µA timekeeping current to the RTC from the main AA batteries when that supply is available. 

…Thinking about it a bit more, I guess what I am really after is a simple modification  that provides a Diode-OR behavior to switch between the coin cell & the 3.3v rail on the chip’s Vbat line.  If I cut the trace from the positive terminal of the coin cell and jumper a 1n5817 across to the common pad on the existing charger circuit, I think we would have the best of both worlds. There would be some drop across the 200Ω resistor & 4148 diode, so the 3.3v rail would deliver less than that to Vbat, and this would drag the coincell/shottky combination down, but once they equalize that the drain on the coincell should go to zero. Perhaps, I should add a little cap in there to smooth the voltage transitions?

Addendum 2017-04-15     Coin Cell backup routed through a diode

I tested the 1n5817 Diode-OR idea:  with 3.289v on the Vcc line from the Promini’s board regulator, the DVM sees a voltage of only 3.028 on the Vbat line, so the drop across the diode/resistor pair was 0.261v, which is pretty low for a 4148 because of the extremely small current flowing through it. My primary concern was that leakage through the Shottky would exceed the reverse current spec on the coin cell.  So I put a very dead CR2032 in the RTC module (which read at 2.8v unloaded, so around 75% discharged) and that showed a steady 0.69µA of reverse leakage going backwards through the 1n5817 into the coin cell when the charger circuit side was powered. When I disconnected the main logger’s voltage regulator, the current through that diode changed direction as it was supposed to, and increased to 0.84µA, which is less than the typical timekeeping current for these RTC’s, so the coin cell can’t be loosing much power to the main Vcc line by backwards leakage through the charger circuit.  You could also clearly see the periodic current spike from the temp register updates when they occurred. After several power/depower cycles  like this the RTC did not loose its internal time even with this crummy backup battery. Then I switched to a slightly less dead coin (at 3.08v unloaded which is still low) and the reverse leakage fell down to only 0.19µA.  So a really low voltage coin cell will see some power flowing back into it, but both were below that 1µA reverse current spec.

Note that this whole idea assumes that you are providing pin-power to the RTC during I2C communications!

Switching to a brand new coin cell (read unloaded at 3.265v) and there is no reverse leakage when the loggers Vcc is powering the charge circuit, but a small forward current from the battery to the main pad of 0.01µA.  The coin cell is now applying a higher voltage to the common pad than the 3.028 it would receive through the 200Ω resistor/1N4148 diode combination. So I think that a new coin cell will eventually be pulled down to match the charger pad voltage, but since the normal discharge plateau for Cr2032’s is at 2.9v, and the Vcc supplied pad stays around 3.03v, the coin-cell should never really have the opportunity to discharge if the logger is powered by the main AA battery.

WooT!

Addendum 2017-08-01     Other DS3231 breakouts

I’ve been noticing more DS3231 breakout boards on the market as this chip is also a go-to chip for the raspberry pi , but for some reason many do not have the alarm line broken out.  This is a mystery to me as I don’t understand why you would leave that functionality out of a design? A lot of PCF8563 boards use this “no-alarm” format as well. Harald Sattler did some jumper conversions to fix this deficit on the Rpi RTC’s for his world clock project.

Addendum 2017-08-01     Accurate Drift test of these modules

Looks like heypete is at it again with some serious drift testing of these RTC’s.  I’m already convinced these cheap modules reach the bar for environmental data logging, but clearly that’s not good enough for a physicist. I’ll be keen to see his results.  (Addendum: HeyPete just posted some 5-month test results: Five of the seven crystal-based DS3231 chips ran fast, while two ran slow. All three of the MEMS-based DS3231M chips ran slow. However all of the units were withing the spec for the respective chips:  +/- 63 seconds per year for the DS3231SN, and +/-2.6 minutes per year on the -M variant ) If you want the highest accuracy out of these chips in your own design, it’s worth knowing that high frequency noise from I2C (for example) can couple to the internal crystal oscillator making the RTC run fast. Because of this the datasheet warns that you should avoid running signal traces under the package unless a ground plane is placed between the package and that signal line. Sattler also has some doubts about the buffering on those cheap knock of boards, which may make them susceptible to more direct interference from I2C coms.

Addendum 2018-02-04:    Measuring Temperature with Two Clocks

By comparing a 1 Hz pulse from the DS3231 to the number of system clock ticks on a Pro Mini clone, I was able to measure temperature to a respectable ±0.01°C. I can also compensate for drift in the frequency based temperature using the temp. register on the RTC. Not bad for a method that relies on nothing more than a couple of code tricks.

At the other end of the spectrum, the DS3231 can also output a 32.768 kHz signal. This can be used to create accurate sub-second intervals by connecting that pulse to the XTAL1 input on the 328P, and then you sleep the cpu until the TIMER2 rolls over. Timer2 is only 8-bit, but by changing the prescaler value and the preloaded count you can set the period at which the interrupt fires to suit your project’s needs. Also, if you wanted a larger interrupt period, you can experiment with Timers 1,3,4, and 5 which have a 16-bit width and can count up to 0xFFFF, 65535 decimal.  Just be sure to note which pins they are tied to

Addendum 2018-03-30     Grounding the VCC line, Adding a stabilization Cap

I made an error during some recent run tests, where I forgot to connect the RTC’s Vcc line jumper to the digital pin for power (see addendum: 2017-04-15) . The test ran without a hitch for several days (>6000 RTC temp readings & alarms) with the Vcc pin left floating, and power  provided only through the Vbat line.  I had assumed that high-speed I2C communications would fail in this situation, but after digging through the data sheet – it turns out that the DS3231 is fully functional on Vbat.  With this realization in mind, I have changed the way I modify these RTC boards for low power sleeping:

Power LED disconnected & trace between Cr2032 & Vbat is cut. Positive coin cell post is then re-connected to Vbat through a 1N4148 diode, Vcc pin on DS3231 is disconnected from the board and re-connected to the common ground via one leg of the capacitor. The 0.1uF cap runs between GND and the Vbat line. With the board configured this way, the module’s sleep current is <1 µA when the I2C signal clock stops (with periodic spikes up to the 575 µA temperature conversion current). That sleep current is drawn from the main power rail via the old “charging” circuit diode, so the Cr2032 coin cell should not discharge at all when the logger is powered.

I had initially used the Shottky diodes because of their “instant” switch-over, but their leakage current is on the order of two to three times higher than with ‘normal’ diodes. And the Shottky’s lower voltage drop was forcing the RTC battery to discharge down to the voltage created when the 3.3v rail passed through the 200 ohm resistor & 1N4148 on the module’s charger circuit. (this pass-through is ~2.97v) By using another 4148 on the coin cell, with it’s matching 0.3v forward drop, I could preserve the coin cell battery at it’s higher nominal starting voltage. The DS3231’s Vcc pin is now connected to GND, rather than being tied to a digital pin on the Arduino for power during logger run-time operations.

I’ve added a small cap because memory within the DS3231 is susceptible to corruption if the VBAT line becomes unstable, which typically happens when removing or inserting the battery. The datasheet states to either change the battery when VCC is providing the power, or to use a capacitor on the VBAT line, to protect against that switch-bounce type noise when changing the battery.

Of course, If you wanted to live dangerously and leave that Vcc leg floating (…like I did by accident – and it still worked in a noisy urban environment…) the bare minimum low-power mod would be to simply flick the charge circuit’s 200ohm resistor off the board with the tip of an iron and then snip the Vcc leg with some side cutters.  The RTC would probably still get you 4-5 years of operation  running full time from the CR2032  ( or you could try to stuff a 600mAh CR2450 in there… )  Coin-cell holders occasionally lose contact very briefly under vibration, so if you cut the Vcc leg – put  a .1 μF capacitor across the coin-cell holder. That value of capacitance will give you about 80 ms grace, which should be longer than the  holder will lose contact.

Addendum 2018-05-16

I found an interesting note about errors caused with RTC communication if the Arduino suffers a voltage brown-out during coms when the DS3231 is in battery backed operation (which I am now using with the board modifications described above…)

Reliable Startup for I2C Battery Backed RTC: Why the Arduino Wire library is not enough

“The I2C interface is accessible whenever either VCC or VBAT is at a valid level. If a micro-controller connected to the DS3231 resets because of a loss of VCC or other event, it is possible that the micro-controller and DS3231 I2C communications could become unsynchronized, e.g., the micro-controller resets while reading data from the DS3231. When the micro-controller resets, the DS3231 I2C interface may be placed into a known state by toggling SCL until SDA is observed to be at a high level. At that point the micro-controller should pull SDA low while SCL is high, generating a START condition.”

Matthew Ford describes an I2C_ClearBus() method to deal with this situation which requires disabling the I2C interface.

“Communication with the I²C should be held off at least for the first 2 seconds after a valid power source has been established. It is during the first 2 seconds after power is established that the accurate RTC starts its oscillator, recalls calibration codes, initiates a temperature sensor read, and applies a frequency correction.”

Addendum 2018-05-16     The ‘-M’ variants of this chip are kind of lame

I just received another batch of these boards with the DS3231M ±5ppm MEMS oscillator (±0.432 Second/Day =157.68 seconds per year )  rather than the DS3231SN ±2ppm shown in the photos for the eBay listing. This kind of bait-n-switch is very common with grey market electronic parts vendors from China, and as heypete describes there is a significant difference between the two chips. Aside from the accuracy differences, the  DS3231N/SN version can be used as both an RTC and a TCXO but the DS3231M is only an RTC. This means that the N/SN chips can output one of several temperature compensated frequencies on the INT#/SQW pin, but the DS3231M can only output a 1 Hz signal. In theory the MEMS version has better shock/impact resistance, and that’s actually a factor for some of our more rugged deployment locations. So despite my reservations about the lower accuracy, we might actually have a use case. There’s a few other quirks with the -M chip.

Another thing that rears its head is the issue of ultrasonic cleaning. These cheap RTC boards always arrived covered in flux, and that’s unlikely to be no-clean type stuff. I’ve been taking the risk of cleaning the RTC’s with 90% iso in a cheap little jewelry cleaner knowing that I might be harming the oscillators, but after more than 150 loggers, over 4 years, I’ve only had one confirmed RTC failure.  MEMS are another big no-no for ultrasonic cleaning and who knows if the cleaner will hit a resonant frequency for that new oscillator…I probably need to start cleaning these boards by hand…

Addendum 2018-06-22

Spurred on by a visiting researcher curious about adding Cave Pearl loggers to their curriculum, I finally put together a set of video tutorials for the current build. Included in the set was a clip showing how I do the low power mod for the RTC board:

Addendum 2019-01-10       You DON’T need to ground Vcc!  –  JUST CUT THE LEG!

RST Pin I/O Leakage: -200 to +10 μA (high impedance)

Just thinking some more about that RTC module which ran despite the fact that the VCC line was completely disconnected…

A bit of digging in the datasheet finds:

The RST pin is an Active-Low Reset pin. This pin is an open-drain input/output which has an internal 50k pull-up resistor to VCC.  No external pull-up resistors should be connected.  (and that’s exactly what I find on this DS3231 breakout module: the RST pin is not connected to anything)

The same pin, RST, is used to indicate a power-fail condition. When VCC is lower than VPF (2.45 to 2.70v) an internal powerfail signal is generated, which forces the RST pin low. When VCC returns to a level above VPF, the RST pin is held low for tREC to allow the power supply to stabilize.  

Assertion of the RST output, whether by pushbutton or power-fail detection, does not affect the internal operation of the DS3232.

The I2C interface is accessible whenever either VCC or VBAT is at a valid level. (Active Battery Current at 3.3V is 80μA,  Timekeeping Battery Current, SCL = SDA = 0V is 3uA)

The oscillator does not start up and no temperature conversions take place until VCC exceeds VPF OR until a valid I2C address is written to the part. The oscillator may be disabled by setting the EOSC bit.

It’s worth noting that while the DS3231 can be set to generate time alarms while running from the backup battery, it can not drive any pulsed frequency outputs after this. Setting bit 3 of the status register to zero disables the 32k out.

So what it looks like is an “unconnected” Vcc pin triggers the power fail condition when the backup battery is inserted, but the VCC leg does not “float” because the RST pin is held low by the powerfail condition and the two are linked by an internal 50K resistor.  The clocks oscillator can still be started by an I2C bus call, which you have to do to set the time anyway.  So if you are OK with simply running down the CR2032 battery (which should run for months with an infrequently pulsed 80uA load during the I2C comms…) –  then you don’t need to go through the extra circuitry I described above: you can simply kick off the smd resistors, cut the Vcc leg – and you have an RTC module that is pulling no power at all from the main power supply!

Loggers built with the Vcc leg cut – but not grounded -through the capacitor (shown in the video) have been operating normally . . .so far . . .

I will probably still keep using the more complex dual-diode mod, because field loggers sometimes take a beating on the way into a deployment, and I don’t want the time getting reset due to those hard knocks which are sometimes hard enough to dislodge the Cr2032.  But for units going into more gentle environments, I think I will simply cut the Vcc leg right at the start, and live with the ~4-year lifespan on that backup battery. Also note that you need to set a register to enable alarms when running from backup power.

NOTE: Dec 2020: I’ve now done this diode & cut vcc mod to more than 100 deployed loggers. They have all been running fine!  However there is one thing that’s worth mentioning again. You need to clear the status register in setup or the RTC draws excess current after the mod:

void clearClockTrigger()

{
Wire.beginTransmission(0x68);
Wire.write(0x0F);
Wire.endTransmission();
Wire.requestFrom(0x68,1);
Wire.read();
Wire.beginTransmission(0x68);
Wire.write(0x0F);
Wire.write(0b00000000);
Wire.endTransmission();
}

Addendum 2019-01-15     Direct power control via MOSFET & Ds3231 Alarm

Back in 2016-09 I mentioned that some projects were using the RTC alarm (which outputs low) to control a P-Fet on the high side of the main power supply.  A very interesting instrument paper was recently published that uses exactly that strategy with a Wemos Lolin D1 Mini:

Measuring microenvironments for global change: DIY environmental
microcontroller units (EMUs).  Mickley JG, et al  (Methods Ecol Evol. 2018;00:1–7. https://doi.org/10.1111/2041-210X.13128)

The ESP8266 outperforms our humble Pro Mini’s with a higher CPU speed (80 Mhz vs. 16 Mhz), more RAM (43 KB vs. 2 KB), built-in WiFi, and more flash storage space (512 KB–16 MB vs. 32 KB).  The whopping storage space options are especially attractive given that a typical deployment for us only generates about 4Mb of CSV data per year. But it has one big Achilles heel: the sleep currents are considerably higher, with the D1 Mini weighing in around 100uA. To put that in perspective, you can usually get promini boards down to about 5uA without much effort (and ~20 uA for the entire logger if you switch the SD card).  To address this issue, the EMU project successfully implemented a high side switch with an NDP6020P, and documented the project on one of the best project Github Repo’s I’ve ever seen for an open source project.  What’s interesting about their method is that the DS3231 is automatically powered by the AA battery whenever the system is “on”, so the backup coin cell should last for years…unlike the “simply cut the vcc leg” method I discussed in my last update.  The potential 6v+ from that 4xAA is above the Ds3231’s rated max of 5.5v.  But hey – they ran those loggers for months without that addition, so theres clearly a lot of latitude on the spec. There’s also the fact that I typically see a 300mv drop on alkaline batteries under load, so there’s a good chance that the RTC wasn’t over rating very long on their deployments.

Addendum 2019-03-03     32khz output can be used to measure temperature!

I recently did some experiments pitting the internal WDT against other clocks to see if it could be used as an ambient temperature sensor. In one of those I tried counting the 32khz output from the DS3231 as a trusted time base. It ended up being too slow for the job, but I figured I would add the enabling code here for future reference:

Wire.beginTransmission(0x68);  //Tell devices on the bus we are talking to the DS3231
Wire.write(0x0F);  //#define DS3231_REG_STATUS (0x0F)
Wire.endTransmission();  //Before you can write/clear the alarm you have to read the flag
Wire.requestFrom(0x68,1);  //Read one byte
bytebuffer1=Wire.read();  //existing status register content bool 32kHzenabled=true;
bytebuffer1 &= 0b11110111;  //clear the third bit
bool kHzenabled=true;  //When set to logic 1, the 32kHz pin is enabled and outputs a 32.768kHz
bytebuffer1 |= (kHzenabled << 3);  //writes third bit to 1 for enabled
Wire.beginTransmission(0x68);  // talking to the DS3231
Wire.write(0x0F); //Status Register //Bit 3: zero disables 32kHz, Bit 7: zero enables main osc.
Wire.write(bytebuffer1);  //Bit1: zero clears Al2 Flag (A2F), Bit0: zero clears Al1 Flag (A1F)
Wire.endTransmission();

Note that you CAN NOT do this trick with the -M variant of DS3231 because the MEMS itself is not temperature compensated the same way as the -S/SN variants.

Addendum 2019-03-10     Threw a bunch of -M modules in the garbage

Well it finally happened: I got a bad batch of the DS3231 modules -> all with the crappy -M version of the chip. (The “M” types have a MEMS resonator as a frequency-determining element on board,the others run with temperature-compensated crystal oscillators)  The supply of -SN chips that have been on the market for years seems to have dried up for now, but of course all the eBay sellers are careful to only show photos of the -SN, and then ship you the -M. They know exactly what they are doing.  About 50% of this bad batch have temperature register output that’s 5 to 10C above actual making me wonder if there is an internal current leak causing self heating. The ±2ppm of the SN chip is achieved by correction of the oscillator based on the temperature.  With offset temp. register data I expect these defect boards to drift quite badly – probably approaching the ±20ppm errors you see on the uncorrected 1307 chips, which translates into about a minute of drift error per month. I’ve never had a problem with the -SN labeled modules, so for now I’m just throwing the suspect -M chips in the trash. The problem is that eBay vendors are notorious for using re-labeling chips, and I’m sure that there are some willing to print -SN labels on crappy -M chips. If you think you’ve got a re-tread try turning on lower frequency output, as the the M does not support 8k, 4k, or 1k.

And that makes me think some more about how to re-synchronize loggers that have been in the field for a long time.  Best idea I can come up with is to have a “sync transmitter unit”, with a GPS to set its internal time, which then pulses out an (IR?) signal that triggers an incoming interrupt on multiple receiving units at the same time.  This way I could bring wayward loggers back into time sync without physically disturbing them…? Have to put some more thought into this because if I was going to go to that level of trouble I might as well just configure an optical modem downloading unit to retrieve the data at the same time.

Addendum 2019-07-29      Tweak Aging register to GPS signal?

On this GPS and Time post, David Pilling use the analogue comparator to pit his UBLOX GPS against the DS3231 RTC – measuring the time between output edges (PPS from the Ublox on input0, and PPS from the DS3231 on input1) in msec.  He then tweeks the aging register in the DS3231 to make it keep pace with the GPS, which is much cheaper than the Kerry Wongs method with a HP 5350B. GPS disciplined oscillators have been a thing in the amateur radio world for a while. TimeGPS from the Arduino Time Library by Paul Stoffregen is also worth investigating. If it was me, I want to parse the NEMA datat to do an initial date/time setting, then I’d probably have tried a counter on the DS3231’s 32kHz output, till the 1 PPS signal from the GPS triggered a second interrupt.

One thing to note here: the ‘time-nut’ sites claim that GPS pps can have pretty poor short term stability, though it has near perfect long term stability. So you can’t just sit there watching a single PPS and make adjustments to the clock crystal every second because it will jitter all over the place. You have to average out the jitter over a very long time constant (like one hour?)  and have a good algorithm to make correct adjustments to your RTC oscillator at that point. A bit of code that did this automatically, say over a day of unattended operation would be a sweet little utility for users of the DS3231.

Addendum 2019-08-01      Clocking the Pro Mini from a crystal

Have a few project ideas that will need very accurate timing, so have been looking into clocking the Pro Mini boards from a crystal. The basic procedure for more accurate time with an Arduino follows the same steps:

Get a 32768 Hz watch crystal: either buy it or disassemble an old clock. These crystals, specifically designed for time keeping, have an extremely small temperature drift. You would also need one of those if you wanted to use an RTC chip.

Configure the fuses of your ATmega to run off the 8 MHz RC oscillator. This will make your millis() function horribly inaccurate, and also free the XTAL1 and XTAL2 pins.

Connect the watch crystal to the TOSC1 and TOSC2 pins. These are the same pins as XTAL1 and XTAL2 (9 and 10 on the 328P). The different names are used to mean different functions.

Configure the Timer/Counter 2 for asynchronous operation, normal counting mode, prescaler set to 128, and enable the timer overflow interrupt.Now you will get a TIMER2_OVF interrupt at a very steady rate of once per second.

David Piling and Jeelabs have both experimented with this procedure.  But since the DS3231 is already temperature compensated, I just can’t help feeling there must be an easier way to do this using the DS3231’s output…

Addendum 2019-10-01

Soft 1.6mm heat-shrink behind the contact spring

 

Two dabs of hot glue.

I’ve been having the occasional bump reset on  RTC modules running entirely from the backup battery (because the Vcc leg on the chip has been cut) . Not surprising given how roughly they get treated on the way into a cave, but I’ve recently started adding some re-enforcement to the coin-cell holder, which can be quite loose on some modules.

Addendum 2019-10-01

Here is an interesting article by someone who found that repeated access to the DS3231 registers over the I²C interface was slowing down the RTC because the knock-off modules do not double buffer the time registers (which would allow the clock to continue internally during a read access via I²C, undisturbed) I’m not sure I’ve seen any evidence of this with data-logging applications, which at a typical 15 minute sampling interval would probably fall into the bucket of  a ‘low communications load’ application.

Addendum 2020-08-25

Well, it looks like the DS3231-S/SN has been discontinued and is not available for purchase from Maxim. This probably explains why they’ve been so cheap on eBay lately. Might have to take another look at the PCF2129.

Addendum 2020-10-15

This years student logger tutorial, showcasing this RTC module in context:

Logger assembled from off-the-shelf modules with minimal soldering.

Addendum 2021-01-25        External Interrupts can skip the ISR on Wake from SLEEP

I’ve spend the last few days trying to understand some pretty mysterious lock-up errors using BOTH external interrupt sources to wake our loggers from successive sleep events. The first source was a TTP233 cap switch and the other was the normal DS3231 interval alarm.  The idea was to have the cap switch enable the display ‘at any time’ to show the recent sensor readings for 8 seconds while the RTC triggers the normal ‘full cycle’.  Running both interrupts simultaneously (and leaving them engauged after waking from sleep) has caused several different lockup and/or endless restart loop failures but I think I’ve finally figured out one root cause and it’s related to how the oscillator’s startup latency on 328p based boards can lead to ‘orphan’ bits in the External Interrupt Flag Register (EIFR) when waking from deep sleep states.

From RocketScreams github:

“If your source of wake up has a very short pulse (example your low pulse from UART) even in the range of ms, the MCU will not be able to determine what woke it up because upon waking up there will be a delay due to oscillator start up sequence (configured using the fuse and how long depends on the fuse settings). By the time the oscillator start up delay has been completed, your signal has probably already went HIGH. So, this causes it to skip your ISR function call where you would set the IntFlag.”

Those latency delays are about 1msec on 16mhz boards and about 2msec on 8mhz ProMinis (+ disabling BOD before sleep adds another 60 uS) . The wake-up source needs to stay active for some number of CPU clock cycles after wake-up, and these clock cycles do not include the “1k clocks + 60ms” or whatever the fuse setting is. When you assert an interrupt, the device starts to wake up immediately, but it doesn’t follow the normal interrupt behavior until after the startup delay. If the interrupt source goes away before this time, the results appear to be undefined. Sometimes it will wake but you’ll get multiple interrupts, sometimes it will wake but be unable to read its own registers, and sometimes it won’t wake at all. (datasheet sec.17)

In my case the combination of waking the processor from two different external interrupts with the LOW condition for the RTC (ie: what I normally use) and FALLING from the TTP233 switch also caused some kind of pin13 flashing restart loop.  LOW/LOW causes a hard freeze.  Switching them both to FALLING got things running together.

Using the LOW ttp & LOW rtc combination does not work because the TTP is running in ‘momentary’ mode – so the ttp LOW condition disappears before the Arduino wakes up and this usually causes a frozen fail.  FALLING ttp & LOW rtc generally ends up in a loop pulsing the pin13 LED which I think means that interrupt recursion is leading to some kind of stack overflow (?) = restart condition. Level interrupts continually fire while the condition is true and this can easily blow the stack. D2(int0) always gets serviced before D3(int1) because it’s the “higher priority” interrupt in the system – in fact it’s second only to the hard reset. (NOTE: Even in cases where you are not sleeping the cpu like I am – if high priority interrupts start occurring faster than the handler can service them, you get all the registers pushed onto the stack, which fills up & the cpu goes bonkers.)

FALLING ttp (int1) & FALLING rtc (int0) seems to work in every code combination with the interrupts ‘left running all the time’. The short duration of the trigger event prevents the stack overflow because it can only trigger ‘once’ AND because the second sleep library call forces the cpu deal with any EIFR flag bits that were orphaned by the first ‘slow-waking’ event. The sleep library does this because it puts the processor back to sleep with a sequence:  noInterrupts()  … more commands … interrupts(); sleep_cpu();  That global disable/re-enable forces the processor to check the flags and run any matching ISRs – which is the process that ‘normally’ clears those EIFR flags in a processor that’s not sleeping.

I brought this problem on myself by trying to keep the hardware interrupts going all the time for instant response.  If you only enable LEVEL interrupts ‘just before’ sleep and then disable them ‘immediately after’ wake then the stack overflow problem doesn’t occur:

do {

oled.ssd1306WriteCmd(SSD1306_DISPLAYON); //switch display ON

attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(capTouch_InterruptPin),switchPressed_ISR,FALLING);
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(rtcAlarm_InterruptPin),rtc_d2_ISR_function,LOW);
LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_8S, ADC_OFF, BOD_OFF);
detachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(rtcAlarm_InterruptPin));  //detach higher priority 1st
detachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(capTouch_InterruptPin)); //detach lower priority 2nd

oled.ssd1306WriteCmd(SSD1306_DISPLAYOFF); // switch display OFF

attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(capTouch_InterruptPin),switchPressed_ISR,FALLING);
attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(rtcAlarm_InterruptPin),rtc_d2_ISR_function,LOW);
LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_FOREVER, ADC_OFF, BOD_OFF);
detachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(rtcAlarm_InterruptPin));
detachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(capTouch_InterruptPin));

}while(rtc_d2_INT0_Flag == false);      // if rtc flag not set (happens inside ISR) do the loop again

You still have to be carefull about not setting the momentary inputs like the TTP233 to LOW level triggering, or you get the orphan flag problem.

Addendum 2021-03-19

An interesting post on creating Optimal Timestamps for Bio-loggers.  Our loggers buffer data to the RTC modules eeprom first AND we use fixed time intervals. So we’ve switched over to simply saving a ‘complete record’ – including the current timestamp – at the start of each buffer filling cycle, and then use the eeprom memory location of each successive record as the ‘time offset’ from that initial absolute value.  A Unix timestamp for each record gets ‘re-constituted’ when the eeprom buffer is read back & transferred to the SD card. Note that all  calculations for Unix timestamps have to be done with the compiler forced into ‘long’ uint32_t calculation mode by attaching an ‘L’ suffix to your constants. Othewise the compiler might switch back to it’s default int16_t calculations which will overflow. If you see your timestamps randomly increasing & then decreasing, you have a overflow error.

This method dovetails with the limited 30-byte data package of the I2C wire library; wherever possible you want to avoid having to make room for that timestamp in addition to your data. It’s worth mentioning that eeproms are pokey and do use a significant amount of power over time, so the only thing that makes it worthwhile to do this kind of buffering is SD card have high sleep currents & use absolutely ridiculous amount of power when cards trigger their internal housekeeping routines. Long-term logger solutions need to power the SD cards as rarely as possible.

Addendum 2020-05-24:   Interrupt latency with wake from sleep

I just watched an interesting video about the sleeping the ESP32 processors and was quite surprised to find out how long (150 µS) and how variable the hardware interrupt latency is on these expressive processors. This set me down the rabbit hole to find out what the latency is on the AVR processors. On a normally running processor you enter the ISR in 23 clock cycles, which is about 1.5µS @16MHz. However if you loop through POWER_DOWN there are extra things to consider like the fact that disabling the BOD in software (just before sleep) is going to add 60 µS to your wake-up time. You also have an ‘oscillator stabilization period’ of 16k CPU cycles with a  standard external oscillator. [see Sect.10.2 of the datasheet] The net result is that the Wake/Start-up time for a 8MHz Arduino is ~1.95ms.  AVR’s with 16MHz clocks like the one I used for this test should have a wake-up time of less than 1ms.  A 3.3v Pro Mini based build @8MHz is even slower unless you use SLEEP_MODE_IDLE to keep the main oscillator running which avoids that long stabilization delay.

Addendum 2023-12-01: 2-Part Pro Mini & RTC data logger

Anyone reading this post might find the latest iteration of our 2-Module Classroom Data Logger interesting as we power the unit entirely from the coin cell on the RTC module. The combination of a cheap ProMini clone with this RTC sleeps well below 5uA, and should easily run for more than a year on that Cr2032.

Adding a 32k eeprom to that logger is effortless with with the mini breadboards. But for those wanting a more advanced single-sensor build: In this video we walk through removing the default 4k EEprom on the RTC module and replacing it with two stacked 64k EEproms.

Addendum 2024: Calibrating & Synchronizing RTC time with a GPS

I finally addressed the issue of synchronizing multiple RTCs – primarily for better tide signal analysis but also because the quality of the chips in circulation seems to have fallen significantly since the beginning of this project. Taking a lesson from HeyPete (and others) we tune the aging register, and then set the RTC time from a GPS pulse which is usually within 100 nanoseconds of actual. With this calibration you should be able to reach 1-2 seconds per year with one of these RTC modules indoors.

See that new post at:
Setting Accurate RTC time with a GPS & the DS3231 Aging Offset to Reduce Drift

Tutorial: Using an MS5803 pressure sensor with Arduino

With the DS18B20 temperature sensors in place, it was time to add the ‘depth’ part of the standard CDT suite.  After reading an introduction to the Fundamentals of Pressure Sensor Technology, I understood that most of the pressure sensors out there would not be suitable for depth sensing because they are gauge pressure sensors, which need to have a “low side” port vented to atmosphere (even if the port for this is hidden from view).

This is one of our earliest pressure loggers with a 3″ pvc housing. We now use 2″ PVC pipes (shown at the end of this post) which are much easier to to construct. For an exploded view of the new housing see the appendix at the end of the article in Sensors.

I needed an “absolute” pressure transducer, that has had it’s low side port sealed to a vacuum. I found a plethora of great altimiter projects in the rocketry & octocopter world, (with Kalman filtering!) but far fewer people doing underwater implementations in caves.  But there are a few DIY dive computer  projects out there, at various stages of completion, that use versions of the MS5541C & MS5803 pressure sensors from Measurement Specialties, or the MPX5700 series from Freescale. Victor Konshin had published some code support for the MS5803 sensors on Github, but his .cpp was accessing them in SPI mode, and I really wanted to stick with an I2C implementation as part of my quest for a system with truly interchangeable sensors. That lead me to the Open ROV project were they had integrated the 14 bar version of the MS5803 into their IMU sensor package. And they were using an I2C implementation. Excellent! I ordered a couple of 2 bar, and 5 bar sensors from Servoflo ($25 each +shipping..ouch!) , and a set of SMT breakout boards from Adafruit. A little bit of kitchen skillet reflow, and things were progressing well. (note: I mount these sensors now by hand, which is faster after you get the hang of it it)

Breaking out the I2C interface traces to drive my pressure sensor. My first "real" hack on the project so far.

My first “real” hack on the project so far. (Note: This material was posted in early 2014 , and the only reason I did this hack was that at the time I was running the Tinyduino stack directly from an unregulated 4.5 battery. On my more recent loggers, built with regulated 3.3v promini style boards, I can just use the Vcc line to power the MS5803 sensors, without all this bother…)

But as I dug further into the MS5803 spec sheets I discovered a slight complication. These sensors required a supply voltage between 1.8 – 3.6 V, and my unregulated Tinyduino stack, running on 3 AA’s, was swinging from 4.7 down to 2.8v.  I was going to need some sort of voltage regulator to bring the logic levels into a range that the senor’s could tolerate, with all the attendant power losses that implied… And then it dawned on me that this same problem must exist for the other I2c sensors already available on the Tinyduino platform. So perhaps I might be able to hack into those board connections and drive my pressure sensor? (instead of burning away months worth of power regulating the entire system) The Tiny Ambient Light Sensor shield carried the  TAOS TSL2572 which had nearly identical voltage and power requirements to my MS5803.

I used JB weld to provide support for those delicate solder connections.

I used JB weld to provide support for those delicate solder connections.

So their voltage regulator, and level shifter, could do all the work for me if I could lift those traces.  But that was going to be the most delicate soldering work I have ever attempted. And I won’t pull your leg, it was grim, very grim indeed. Excess heat from the iron  conducted across the board and melted the previous joints with each additional wire I added.  So while the sensors themselves came off easily with an drywall knife, it took two hours (of colorful language…) to lift the traces out to separate jumper wires. I immediately slapped on a generous amount  of JB weld, because the connections were so incredibly fragile. I produced a couple of these breakouts, because I have other sensors to test, and I face this same logic level/voltage problem on the I2C lines every time I power the unregulated Tiny duino’s from a computer USB port.

With a connection to the mcu sorted, it was time to look at the pressure sensor itself. Because I wanted the sensor potted as cleanly as possible, I put the resistor, capacitor, and connections below the breakout board when I translated the suggested connection pattern from the datasheets to this diagram:

The viewed from above, with only one jumper above the plane of the breakout board.

This is viewed from above, with only one jumper above the plane of the SOIC-8 breakout. I used a 100nF (104) decoupling cap. The PS pin (protocol select) jumps to VDD setting I2C mode, and a 10K pulls CSB high, to set the address to 0x76. Connecting CSB to GND would set the I2C address to 0x77 so you can potentially connect two MS5803 pressure sensors to the same bus.

And fortunately the solder connections are the same for the 5 bar, and the 2 bar versions:

I've learned not waste time making the solder joints "look pretty". If they work, I just leave them.

I’ve learned not waste time making the solder joints “look pretty”. If they work, I just leave them.

After testing that the sensors were actually working, I potted them into the housings using JB plastic weld putty, and Loctite E30CL:

The Loctite applicator gun is damned expensive, but it does give you ultra-fine control.

The Loctite applicator gun is expensive, but it gives you the ability to bring the epoxy right to the edge of the metal ring on the pressure sensor.

So that left only the script. The clearly written code by by Walt Holm  (on the Open ROV github) was designed around the 14 bar sensor; great for a DIY submersible, but not quite sensitive enough to detecting how a rainfall event affects an aquifer.  So I spent some time modifying their calculations to match those on the 2 Bar MS5803-02 datasheet :

// Calculate the actual Temperature (first-order computation)
TempDifference = (float)(AdcTemperature – ((long)CalConstant[5] * pow(2, 8)));
Temperature = (TempDifference * (float)CalConstant[6])/ pow(2, 23);
Temperature = Temperature + 2000; // temp in hundredths of a degree C

// Calculate the second-order offsets
if (Temperature < 2000.0) // Is temperature below or above 20.00 deg C?

{T2 = 3 * pow(TempDifference, 2) / pow(2, 31);
Off2 = 61 * pow((Temperature – 2000.0), 2);
Off2 = Off2 / pow(2, 4);
Sens2 = 2 * pow((Temperature – 2000.0), 2);}

else

{T2 = 0;
Off2 = 0;
Sens2 = 0;}

// Calculate the pressure parameters for 2 bar sensor
Offset = (float)CalConstant[2] * pow(2,17);
Offset = Offset + ((float)CalConstant[4] * TempDifference / pow(2, 6));
Sensitivity = (float)CalConstant[1] * pow(2, 16);
Sensitivity = Sensitivity + ((float)CalConstant[3] * TempDifference / pow(2, 7));

// Add second-order corrections
Offset = Offset – Off2;
Sensitivity = Sensitivity – Sens2;

// Calculate absolute pressure in bars
Pressure = (float)AdcPressure * Sensitivity / pow(2, 21);
Pressure = Pressure – Offset;
Pressure = Pressure / pow(2, 15);
Pressure = Pressure / 100; // Set output to millibars

The nice thing about this sensor is that it also delivers a high resolution temperature signal, so my stationary pressure logger does not need a second sensor for that.

A Reef census is co-deployed with the pressure sensor to ground truth this initial test.

A Reefnet Census Ultra is co-deployed with my pressure sensor to ground truth this initial run.

So that’s it, the unit went under water on March 22, 2014, and the current plan is to leave it there for about 4 months. This kind of long duration submersion is probably way out of spec for the epoxy, and for the pressure sensors flexible gel cap. But at least we potted the sensor board with a clear epoxy,  so it should be relatively easy to see how well everything stands up to the constant exposure. (I do wonder if I should have put a layer of silicone over top of the sensor like some of the dive computer manufacturers)

 

Addendum 2014-03-30

I keep finding rumors of a really cheap “uncompensated” pressure sensor out there on the net for about 5 bucks: the HopeRF HSF700-TQ.  But I have yet to find any for sale in quantities less than 1000 units.  If anyone finds a source for a small number of these guys, please post a link in the comments, and I will test them out.  The ten dollar MS5805-02BA might also be pressed into service for shallow deployments using its extended range, if one can seal the open port well enough with silicone. And if all of these fail due to the long duration of exposure, I will go up market to industrial sensors isolated in silicon oil , like the 86bsd, but I am sure they will cost an arm and a leg. 

Addendum 2014-04-15

Looks like Luke Miller has found the the float values used in the calculations from the ROV code generates significant errors. He has corrected them to integers and posted code on his github. Unfortunately one of the glitches he found was at 22.5°C, right around the temperature of the water my units are deployed in. I won’t know for some months how this affects my prototypes. With my so many sensors hanging off of my units, I don’t actually have enough free ram left for his “long int” calculations, so I am just logging the raw data for processing later.

Addendum 2014-09-10

The unit in the picture above survived till we replaced that sensor with a 5-Bar unit on Aug 25th. That’s five months under water for a sensor that is only rated in the spec sheets for a couple of hours of submersion. I still have to pull the barometric signal out of the combined” readings, but on first bounce, the data looks good (mirroring the record from the Reefnet Sensus Ultra)  Since the 2-Bar sensor was still running, it was redeployed in Rio Secreto Cave (above the water table) on 2014-09-03. It will be interesting to see just how long one of these little sensors will last.

Addendum 2014-12-18

The 2Bar unit (in the photo above) delivered several months of beautiful barometric data from it’s “dry” cave deployment, and was redeployed for a second underwater stint in Dec 2014. The 5Bar unit survived 4 months of salt water exposure, but we only got a month of data from it because an epoxy failure on the temperature sensor drained the batteries instantly.  After a makeshift repair in the field, it has now been re-deployed as a surface pressure unit. The good news is that we had the 5Bar sensor under a layer of QSil 216 Clear Liquid Silicone, and the pressure readings look normal compared to the naked 2bar sensor it replaced. So this will become part of my standard treatment for underwater pressure sensors to give them an extra layer of protection.

[NOTE: DO NOT COAT YOUR SENSORS LIKE THIS! this silicone rubber coating failed dramatically later – it was only the stable thermal environment of the caves that made it seem like it was working initially and the silicone also seemed to change its physical volume with long exposure to salt water.  I’m leaving the original material in place on this blog as it’s an honest record of the kinds of mistakes I worked through during this projects development.]

Addendum 2015-01-16

I know the MCP9808 is a bit redundant here, but at only $5, it's nice to get to ±0.25C accuracy. The MS5803's are only rated to ±2.5ºC

I know the MCP9808 is a little redundant here, but at $5 each, it’s nice to reach ±0.25ºC accuracy. The MS5803’s are only rated to ±2.5ºC, and you can really see that in the data when you compare the two. The low profile 5050 LED still has good visibility with a 50K Ω limiter on the common ground line. Test your sensors & led well before you pour the epoxy! (Note: the 9808 temp sensor & LED pictured here failed after about 8 months at 10m. I suspect this was due to the epoxy flexing under pressure at depth because of the large exposed surface area. The MS5803 was still working fine.)

Just thought I would post an update on how I am mounting the current crop of pressure sensors.  My new underwater housing design had less surface area so I combined the pressure sensor, the temperature sensor, and the indicator LED into a single well which gives me the flexibility to use larger breakout boards. That’s allot of surface area to expose at depth, so I expect there will some flexing forces. At this point I have enough confidence  in the Loctite ECL30 to pot everything together, even though my open ocean tests have seen significant yellowing. The bio-fouling is pretty intense out there, so it could just be critters chewing on the epoxy compound. Hopefully a surface layer of Qsil will protect this new batch from that fate.

Addendum 2015-03-02

Just put a 4-5mm coating of Qsil over a few MS5803’s in this new single-ring mount, and on the bench the coating seems to reduce the pressure reading by between 10-50 mbar, as compared to the readings I get from the sensors that are uncoated. Given that these sensors are ±2.5% to begin with, the worst ones have about doubled their error.  I don’t know if this will be constant through the depth range, or if the offset will change with temperature, but if it means that I can rely on the sensor operating for one full year under water, I will live with it.

Addendum 2015-04-06 :  Qsil Silicone Coating idea FAILS

Just returned from a bit of fieldwork where we had re-purposed a pressure sensor from underwater work to the surface. That sensor had Qsil silicone on it, and while it delivered a beautiful record in the the flooded caves, where temperatures vary by less than a degree, it went completely bananas out in the tropical sun where temps varied by 20°C or more per day. I suspect that the silicone was expanding and contracting with temperature, and this caused physical pressure on the sensor that completely swamped the barometric pressure signal. 

Addendum 2016-02-01

Holding MS5803 sensor in place for soldering

Use the smallest with zip tie you can find.

Since these are SMD sensors, mounting them can be a bit of a pain so I though would add a few comments about getting them ready. I find that holding the sensor in place with a zip tie around the SOIC-8 breakout makes a huge difference.  Also, I find it easier to use the standard sharp tip on my Hakko, rather than a fine point  which never seem to transfer the heat as well.

 

SolderingMS5803-2

I also use a wood block to steady my hand during the smd scale soldering.

I plant the point of the iron into the small vertical grooves on the side of the sensor.  I then apply a tiny bead of solder to the tip of the iron, which usually ends up sitting on top, then I roll the iron between my fingers to bring this the bead around to make contact with the pads on the board. So far this technique has been working fairly well, and though the sensors do get pretty warm they have all survived so far.  If you get bridging, you can usually flick away the excess solder if you hold the sensor so that the bridged pads are pointing downwards when you re-heat them.

 

Stages of MS5803 mounting procedure

After mounting the sensor to the breakout board, I think of the rest of the job in two stages: step one is the innermost pair (which are flipped horizontally relative to each other) , and step two by the outermost pair where I attach the incoming I2C wires.  Here SCL is yellow, and SDA is white.  In this configuration CSB is pulled up by that resistor, giving you an I2C address of 0x76.  If you wanted a 0x77 buss address, you would leave out the resistor and attach the now empty hole immediately beside the black wire to that GND line.

Sometimes you need to heat all of the contacts on the side of the sensor at the same time with the flat of the iron to re-flow any bridges that have occurred underneath the sensor itself. If your sensor does not work, or gives you the wrong I2C address, its probably because of this hidden bridging problem.

back side connection ms5803

Adafruit still makes the nicest boards to work with, but the cheap eBay SOIC8 breakouts (like the one pictured above)  have also worked fine and they let me mount the board in smaller epoxy wells.  Leave the shared leg of the pullup resistor/capacitor long enough to jump over to Vcc on the top side of the board .

Addendum 2016-03-08

Have the next generation of pressure sensors running burn tests to see what offsets have been induced by contraction of the epoxy.  I’ve been experimenting with different mounting styles, to see if that plays a part too:

These housings are still open, as it takes a good two weeks for the pvc solvent to clear out...

The housings are left open during the bookshelf runs as it takes a couple of weeks for the pvc solvent to completely clear out, and who knows what effect that would have on the circuits. (Note: for more details on how I built these loggers and housings, you can download the paper from Sensors )

The MS5803’s auto-sleep brilliantly, so several of these loggers make it down to ~0.085 mA between readings, and most of that is due to the SD card.  I’m still using E-30Cl, but wondering if other potting compounds might be better? There just isn’t much selection out there in if you can only buy small quantities. The E30 flexed enough on deeper deployments that the bowing eventually killed off the 5050 LEDs. ( standard 5mm encapsulated LEDs are a better choice ) And I saw some suspicious trends in the temp readings from the MCP9808 under that epoxy too…

Addendum 2016-03-09

Just a quick snapshot from the run test pictured above:

PressureSensorTest_20160309

These are just quick first-order calculations (in a room above 20°C). Apparently no effect from the different mounting configurations, but by comparison to the local weather.gov records, the whole set is reading low by about 20 mbar. This agrees with the offsets I’ve seen in other MS5803 builds, but I am kicking myself now for not testing this set of sensors more thoroughly before I mounted them. Will do that properly on the next batch.

Addendum 2016-09-22

The inside of an MS5803, after the white silicone gel covering the sensor was knocked off by accident.

You can change the I2C address on these sensors to either 0x76 or 0x77 by connecting the CSB pin to either VDD or GND. This lets you connect two pressure sensors to the same logger, and I’ve been having great success putting that second sensor on cables as long as 25 m. This opens up a host of possibilities for environmental monitoring especially for things like tide-gauge applications, where the logger can be kept above water for easier servicing. It’s worth noting that on a couple of deployments, we’ve seen data loss because the senor spontaneously switched it’s bus address AFTER several months of running while potted in epoxy. My still unproven assumption is that somehow moisture penetrated the epoxy, and either oxidized a weak solder joint, or provided some other current path that caused the sensor to switch over.

Addendum 2017-04-30

Hypersaline environments will chew through the white cap in about 3 months.

Given what a pain these little sensors are to mount, it’s been interesting to see the price of these pressure sensor breakout modules falling over time. This spring the 1 & 14 bar versions fell below $24 on eBay.  Of course they could be fake or defective in some way, but I’m probably going to order a few GY-MS5803’s to see how they compare to the real thing.

Addendum 2020-02-29:  Mounting Pressure Sensors under Oil

When exposed to freshwater environments & deployed at less than 10m depth, a typical MS5803 gives us 2-3 years of data before it expires. However we often do deployments in ocean estuaries where wave energy & high salt concentrations shorten the operating life to a year or less. So now we mount them on replaceable dongles, so that it’s easy to replace an expired sensor in the field. I described that sensor mounting system in the 2017 build videos:

Media isolated pressure sensors are common in the industrial market, but they are quite expensive.  So we’ve also used these dongles to protect our pressure sensors under a layer of  oil.  I’ve seen this done by the ROV crowd using comercial isolation membranes, or IV drip bags as flexible bladders, but like most of our approaches, the goal here was to develop a method I could retro-fit to the units already in the field, and repair using materials from the local grocery store:

The sensor is already potted into a NIBCO 1/2″ x 3/4″ Male Pex Adapter, to which we will mate a NIBCO 3/4″ Female Swivel Adapter.

Since the balloon in this case is too large, I simply tie & cut it down to size.  You can also cut your membrane from gloves or use small-size nitrile finger cots

Remove the O-ring from the swivel adapter stem and insert the ‘neck’ of the balloon.

Pull the balloon through till the knot-end becomes visible.

Pull the balloon over the rim on the other side of the pex adapter.

Place the O-ring over the  balloon, and cut away the rolled end material.

Now the threaded swivel ring will not bind on rubber when it gets tightened. Note the knot is just visible at the stem

Fill the mounted sensor ‘cup’ with silicone oil or mineral oil. You could also use lubricants produced by o-ring manufacturers that do not degrade rubbers over time.

 

 

 

Gently push the balloon back out of the stem so that there is extra material in direct contact with oil. You don’t want the membrane stretched tight when you bring the parts together.

Then place the swivel stem on the sensor cup with enough extra membrate so it can moves freely inside the protective stem.

. . . and tighten down with the threaded ring to create a water-tight seal.

 

 

After assembly the membrane material should be quite loose to accommodate pressure changes & any thermal expansion of the oil.

Small trapped air bubbles can cause serious problems in dynamic hydraulic systems, but I don’t think the volume of air in the balloon matters as much when you are only taking one reading every 5-15 minutes.  If you do this oil mount with other common pressure sensors like the BMP280 then you are pretty much guaranteed to have some kind bubble inside the sensor can, but so far I have not seen any delta when compared to ‘naked’ sensors of the same type on parallel test runs. It’s also worth noting that depending on the brand, finger cots can be quite thin, and in those cases I sometimes use two layers for a more robust membrane. Put a drop or two of oil between the joined surfaces of the membranes with a cotton swab to prevent binding – they must slide freely against each other and inside the pex stem.

Yes, there is a pressure sensor buried in there! We got data for ~3.5 months before the worms covered it completely. In these conditions a larger IV bag is a better choice than the small oil reservoir I’ve described above. Simply attach that flexible oil-filled bladder directly to the stem of a 1/2″pex x 3/4″swivel connector with a crimp ring.

It’s also worth adding a comment here on the quality of the oil that you use. For example, silicone oil can be used on o-rings, and sources like Parker O-ring handbook describe this as “safe all rubber polymers”. But it’s often hard to find pure silicone oil and hardware store versions often use a carrier or thinner (like kerosene) that will damage or even outright dissolve rubbers on contact. And although we’ve used the mineral oil/balloon combination for short periods, nitrile is a better option in terms of longevity. With nitrile’s lower flexibility, you have to be careful when fitting cots over the o-ring end of the connector tube because it leaves leaky folds if theres too much extra material, or tears easily if it’s too small.  In all cases the flexible material should fit into the stems 3/4 inch diameter without introducing any tension in the membrane when you assemble the connector parts. It must be free to move back & forth in response to external pressure changes.

Our latest housing design with direct connections to make sensor replacement easier

Also note if you have to build one of the larger white PVC sensor cups shown in the video (because your sensor is mounted on a large breakout board) then I’ve found that clear silica gel beads make a reasonable filler material under the breakout board BEFORE you pour the potting epoxy into the sensor well.  This reduces the amount epoxy needed so that there is less volume contraction when it cures, but a low viscosity epoxy like E30CL still flows well enough around the beads and allows the air bubbles to escape.  With wide diameter sensor cups, you will probably have to switch over to something like a polyurethane condom as the barrier membrane.

Addendum 2021-10-12:

Just an update on how I now prepare these raw sensors: 30 AWG breakout wires attach directly to the MS5803 pressure sensor with CSB to GND (setting sensor address to 0x77) & PS bridged to Vcc (setting I2C mode) via the 104 ceramic decoupling capacitor legs. In these photos SDA is white & SCL is yellow.

The wire connections are then embedded in epoxy inside our standard sensor dongles.

Addendum 2024-09-15:

We posted a new tutorial on: How to Normalize a Set of Pressure Sensors. There are always offsets between pressure sensors from different manufacturers, and normalization lets you use them together in the same sensor array.

Field Report 2014-03-22: The next generation of flow sensors is deployed.

The Field Testing Station.

The field testing station. The polished O-ring seats are covered with blue painters tape for protection.

After the successful retrieval, I set to work on scripts for the next generation of sensors. It’s amazing how the kind of focus that coding requires can really mess with your perception of time, leaving you feeling that everything is being done at the last possible minute, though you have been working on it for several days... But after some datasheet slogging (thanks once again to the folks at Turtle Bay Cafe for their patience), the units started to produce reasonable
numbers, and on the morning of the 20th we were “all systems go”. I had three pendulum units (plus one backup) and one high resolution pressure sensor ready to deploy.   The pressure sensor would be stationary to record the water level, and I did not want it swing around on a pendulum until I get a chance to do a bit more homework on the calculations required to compensate for that motion.

As usual, we had one unit misbehave on the bench so badly it needed a complete "brain transplant".

We had one unit misbehaving so badly it needed a complete “brain transplant”, but the modular design of the system meant this was pretty easy to do.

The low power consumption of our bench tests gave me the confidence to set a couple of the loggers to 5 minute sampling intervals, while leaving the third on a more conservative 15 minute schedule. (in case the faster loggers run out of juice before we can collect them). Then we sealed everything up and set out to collect the tanks, etc. from our friend Bil Phillips at Speleotec dive shop in Tulum. On the way there I monitored the heartbeat LED’s.  But unit 3 did not pip, so while Trish sorted the dive gear I cracked it open to find that indeed, it was not logging (I suspect because of a loose RTC alarm/interrupt line).  As luck would have it, a couple of researchers working with a group from Denmark/Austria  (who have done some impressive work ) arrived to prepare for their days dive. They were testing some newly developed 3D scanning equipment, including a flow meter using an optical method based on laser tracking of particles. A good nurtured discussion ensued about the pros & cons of different measurement methods: “How will you calibrate?” “That’s going to be really non linear..” “Yep, but I have no problems with bio-fouling, and no issues with salinity/refractive index…” I will skip the rest of the nerdy details, but let’s just say there’s nothing like a bit of friendly competition to motivate…

I used the deflection of an 8 inch cable tie as a rough field balance. Units were tuned to approximately 10-20 grams negative.

I used the deflection of an eight inch cable tie as a rough field balance. The units were tuned to  approximately 10-20 grams negative.

Once out at the site, I tried to standardize the buoyancy of each unit. The beta’s had significant variation in their response to water flow, and my goal on this build was to achieve a more reasonable amount of inter-unit consistency. Even with stainless steel bolts on the housings, I still had to add about 150 grams of ballast to each logger. (weighted towards the top of the units to offset any torque from the internal mass of the AA batteries)  I am not happy about all that hard iron near my compass sensor, but the data will tell me if it causes a serious problem, as compared to all the other factors, like the batteries, etc. My humble budget will not extend to a degaussed power supply!

They are deployed quite close together, to allow me to assess inter-unit response for this build.

They are deployed quite close together, to allow me to assess inter-unit response for this build.

Low channel flow meant that the deployment dive was pretty easy, and we re-occupied the previous logger location for a continuous data set. The new bungee cord anchors are much easier to attach to the ceiling of the cave than the knots of nylon string used earlier, but of course we don’t yet know how long the rubber will last. Despite my surface testing, I still needed to transfer a few ballast washers to achieve a similar angle of inclination on the pendulums.  During this operation I was promising myself that the next units will be much more compact, and have no metal parts on the outside.  After a final inspection swim, with the capture of a little video, we were done.  Although the whole installation went smoothly, the earlier delays from Unit 3, and my buoyancy calibrations, made for a very long day, so it was well after dark when we finally left the water. After so many months of work, I could finally relax a moment and take it all in – my little cave pearls are starting to feel like a “real” scientific monitoring platform:

(Yeah, shakey cam: but our WG-3 croaked last year and the Heros are not great in low light, so this was captured on a little Powershot D10, that’s nearly 10 years old)

It will be a while before we see data from the new units, but I am confident we will see good numbers from them. (…still have my fingers crossed though!) I think I need to go have a moment on the beach, before my brain starts chewing on all fixes for the next build. I have homework to do before I get a good electrical conductivity sensor in the mix that can cover the entire fresh to marine range (standard electrodes are not designed for this) but I wonder what else I could add to the little loggers?

<— Click here to continue reading—>